Satin
12 glazes / Coyote
Coyote's Satin line is the quiet one. Soft, opaque colors with a low sheen, and almost none of them break or run.
That is the opposite of what the Shinos next to them do, and it is deliberate. Coyote sell these partly as colors in their own right and partly as a still, reliable base for the glazes that do move.
Cone 5/6Bisque to Cone 043 studio favorites
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Satin by the numbers
12glazes on our shelves
1at Green Level
9at Yellow Level
2at Purple Level
3good on texture
3studio favorites
Friendly studio tip for this glaze family
This is the shelf for when you want the pot to be the point.
Nothing here breaks or runs, so there is no surprise waiting in the kiln and no movement to hide an uneven coat. Brush it properly and you get exactly the color on the jar, with a soft low sheen instead of a shine.
It is also the best base on the Coyote shelf. Several of these are meant to sit under a runnier glaze and hold their color while the one on top does the moving.
Every Satin glaze we have in house
Hover any tile to see a pot fired in it, or tap once on a phone.
Jump straight to one
Nothing by that name.
12 to choose from
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How the Satin line works
Twelve colors, fired between witness cone 5 and witness cone 6.
Coyote describe the surface as soft and opaque, smooth to the touch, and say the line does not break or run. The color you brush is close to the color you get.
Coats
Cone 5 to cone 6 over bisque.
Because nothing here is trying to move, an even coat is the whole job. A satin has no reactive break to disguise a thin patch, so slow down and get the coverage right.
Layering
This is the base layer of the Coyote shelf, and they name specific pairings themselves.
Cerulean is recommended under Bronze Temmoku or Archie's Base. Baby Blue is recommended with more mobile glazes like the Archie's series. Forest is recommended under runnier colors. Coyote call Gun Metal Green over Lapis one of the most popular combinations they sell, making something unlike either color on its own.
Food and safety
Coyote have their recipes reviewed by an independent toxicologist and none of them use lead.
They ask that you test your own finished ware for food safety, because the clay body and firing both change the result. Coyote single out Alabaster as a liner glaze for functional work.
Clays that suit Satin
These are opaque and unbreaking, so the clay under them matters less here than almost anywhere else in the Bible.
Any body worksEverything from #16 Porcelain to Berlin Gray will carry these, and the color stays close to the jar.
Light bodies#16 Porcelain, B-Mix and Half & Half read closest to Coyote's own tiles.
On textureA satin will not draw your carving the way a shino does. If you carved the pot for the glaze to find, use a breaking glaze instead and keep the satin for the form.
Worth knowingCoyote say crystals can form in the liquid glaze if it is stored below 65F.
From The Clay Hole University
More info about Satin below, but first... Everything we teach about glazing, written down and taught properly. These are the glaze lessons, and they are a small corner of a library that runs from centering your first pot to selling your work.
GuideGlaze Brushing Techniques, Coat by Coat
GuideGlazing Big and Intricate Pottery Faster
GuideGetting the Most Out of the Mega Glaze Tool
GuideMaking, Logging and Dialing in Test Tiles
GuideGlaze Problems, Causes and Fixes
GuideGlazing on the Wheel for Even Coats and Clean Bands
GuideBubble Glaze with Dish Soap
GuideMixing Your Own Glazes: What It Actually Involves
GuideMaking a Glaze Catcher
GuideOxide and Carbonate Washes
GuideWhen to Use Celadon Glazes
GuideHow to Use Dipping Glazes
UnderglazeHow to Use Underglaze: Techniques, Rules and Firing
UnderglazeMishima: How to Inlay Slip and Underglaze into Carved Lines
UnderglazeWipe-Away Texture: Underglaze and Oxide Washes on Bisque
The Satin test tile pot
Every glaze family on our shelves has its own test tile pot, and it is the fastest way to decide what to put on a piece. It is a fired pot wearing the whole family, one numbered tile per glaze, on a surface built to show you what that glaze actually does rather than just what color it is.
Look for Coyote Satin written on the rim. Each glaze on this page carries its tile number, and the numbers run around the pot.
One trick worth knowing
Some glazes tell you loudly that they run. Others hide it. Look at how the brushed lines fired: crisp edges mean a stable glaze, and edges that went soft and fluid mean it moved, and it will move on your pot too.
About these images and what your pot will actually look like
We have done our best to represent every glaze here accurately, and you should still expect your pot to look different from what is on this screen.
Our glaze tile images are digitally created. They are built to show the character of a glaze, not to be a color match.
A screen is not a printout, a printout is not a test tile, and a test tile is not a finished pot. Each step in that chain shifts what a glaze looks like, sometimes a lot.
On top of that, the pottery itself changes the result: the clay body, how thick the glaze went on, whether it was brushed, dipped or sprayed, what was layered under or over it, where the piece sat in the kiln, how hot that spot ran, how fast it cooled, what was fired next to it, and how much texture the surface had. Two pots glazed from the same jar on the same day can come out different.
Treat every image here as a starting point, and treat a test tile fired on your own clay as the real answer.