Satin

12 glazes / Coyote

Coyote's Satin line is the quiet one. Soft, opaque colors with a low sheen, and almost none of them break or run.

That is the opposite of what the Shinos next to them do, and it is deliberate. Coyote sells these partly as colors in their own right and partly as a still, reliable base for the glazes that do move.

Cone 5/6Bisque to Cone 043 studio favorites

Satin by the numbers

12glazes on our shelves
1at Green Level
9at Yellow Level
2at Purple Level
3good on texture
3studio favorites

Friendly studio tip for this glaze family

This is the shelf for when you want the pot to be the point.

Nothing here breaks or runs, so there is no surprise waiting in the kiln and no movement to hide an uneven coat. Brush it properly and you get exactly the color on the jar, with a soft low sheen instead of a shine.

It is also the best base on the Coyote shelf. Several of these are meant to sit under a runnier glaze and hold their color while the one on top does the moving.

Every Satin glaze we have in house

Hover any tile to see a pot fired in it, or tap once on a phone.

Jump straight to one

12 to choose from

Order
Coyote Alabaster Satin glaze test tile, fired at The Clay HoleA pot fired in Coyote Alabaster Satin at The Clay Hole
Alabaster Satin

CoyoteSatin

🟨 Yellow Level

Tile #1

Good on texture Studio favorite

A smooth, not quite glossy white, Alabaster Satin is ideal as a liner glaze for functional ware. Try using it with underglaze like a majolica base.

Coyote Baby Blue Satin glaze test tile, fired at The Clay HoleA pot fired in Coyote Baby Blue Satin at The Clay Hole
Baby Blue Satin

CoyoteSatin

🟨 Yellow Level

Tile #2

A bright blue that feels warm and soft. Doesn't run, combines great with other colors, especially more mobile ones like the Archie's Series.

Coyote Cerulean Satin glaze test tile, fired at The Clay HoleA pot fired in Coyote Cerulean Satin at The Clay Hole
Cerulean Satin

CoyoteSatin

🟨 Yellow Level

Tile #3

Studio favorite

A deep blue that absorbs the light and draws the eye. Cerulean Satin works great on its own, and looks even better under Bronze Temmoku or Archie's Base.

Coyote Charcoal Satin glaze test tile, fired at The Clay HoleA pot fired in Coyote Charcoal Satin at The Clay Hole
Charcoal Satin

CoyoteSatin

🟨 Yellow Level

Tile #4

Studio favorite

A great alternative to Black for potters looking for less shine on their finished work. A natural looking dark charcoal color that absorbs light.

Coyote Cherry Satin glaze test tile, fired at The Clay HoleA pot fired in Coyote Cherry Satin at The Clay Hole
Cherry Satin

CoyoteSatin

🟪 Purple Level

Tile #11

Good on texture

A bright, true red. Similar to the Really Red glaze, but with a less glossy finish that absorbs the light.

Coyote Coral Satin glaze test tile, fired at The Clay HoleA pot fired in Coyote Coral Satin at The Clay Hole
Coral Satin

CoyoteSatin

🟨 Yellow Level

Tile #5

A pinkish red with a buttery surface. Doesn't break or run, combines great with other glazes.

Coyote Forest Satin glaze test tile, fired at The Clay HoleA pot fired in Coyote Forest Satin at The Clay Hole
Forest Satin

CoyoteSatin

🟩 Green Level

Tile #6

A solid, unbreaking green. Forest Satin looks great on its own, or under other, runnier colors.

Coyote Lapis Satin glaze test tile, fired at The Clay HoleA pot fired in Coyote Lapis Satin at The Clay Hole
Lapis Satin

CoyoteSatin

🟨 Yellow Level

Tile #8

A deep bluish purple with no breaking. Coyote calls Gun Metal Green over Lapis Satin one of the most popular combinations it sells, and says it makes something unlike either color on its own.

Coyote Orchid Satin glaze test tile, fired at The Clay HoleA pot fired in Coyote Orchid Satin at The Clay Hole
Orchid Satin

CoyoteSatin

🟨 Yellow Level

Tile #9

A warm purple, considerably brighter and less blue than the Lapis Satin. Orchid Satin's bright tones and subtle surface make it a perfect contrast to darker, glossier glazes.

Coyote Seafoam Satin glaze test tile, fired at The Clay HoleA pot fired in Coyote Seafoam Satin at The Clay Hole
Seafoam Satin

CoyoteSatin

🟨 Yellow Level

Tile #10

Good on texture

A bright bluish green with a smooth, buttery feel. Great as a slightly calmer, less glossy alternative to Mint.

Pots decorated with Coyote Satin glazes at The Clay Hole pottery studio

How the Satin line works

Twelve colors, fired between witness cone 5 and witness cone 6.

Coyote describes the surface as soft and opaque, smooth to the touch, and says the line does not break or run. The color you brush is close to the color you get.

Coats

Cone 5 to cone 6 over bisque.

Because nothing here is trying to move, an even coat is the whole job. A satin has no reactive break to disguise a thin patch, so slow down and get the coverage right.

Layering

This is the base layer of the Coyote shelf, and it names specific pairings itself.

Cerulean is recommended under Bronze Temmoku or Archie's Base. Baby Blue is recommended with more mobile glazes like the Archie's series. Forest is recommended under runnier colors. Coyote calls Gun Metal Green over Lapis one of the most popular combinations it sells, making something unlike either color on its own.

Food and safety

Coyote has its recipes reviewed by an independent toxicologist and none of them use lead.

They ask that you test your own finished ware for food safety, because the clay body and firing both change the result. Coyote single out Alabaster as a liner glaze for functional work.

Clays that suit Satin

These are opaque and unbreaking, so the clay under them matters less here than almost anywhere else in the Bible.

Any body worksEverything from #16 Porcelain to Berlin Gray will carry these, and the color stays close to the jar.
Light bodies#16 Porcelain, B-Mix and Half & Half read closest to Coyote's own tiles.
On textureA satin will not draw your carving the way a shino does. If you carved the pot for the glaze to find, use a breaking glaze instead and keep the satin for the form.
Worth knowingCoyote says crystals can form in the liquid glaze if it is stored below 65F.
Blocks of clay in the studio at The Clay Hole The complete guide to clay bodies What each body is made of and how it behaves under a glaze. The clay bodies we stock at The Clay Hole The clays we carry Every body on our shelf, with bag sizes and prices.

Common questions about Satin

How many Coyote Satin glazes does The Clay Hole carry?

Twelve, and every one has its own page here with test tile and fired pot photos.

What cone do they fire to?

Between witness cone 5 and witness cone 6, which is where our kilns run.

Do they break over texture?

No, and that is the point. Coyote built most of this line unbreaking, so the color stays even.

Are they food safe?

Coyote has its recipes reviewed by an independent toxicologist and none contain lead. They ask that you test your own finished ware. They recommend Alabaster as a liner glaze.

What is the difference between satin and gloss here?

The surface. A satin is soft and low sheen rather than shiny, and it absorbs light instead of reflecting it.

Can I use them as a base?

Yes, that is one reason they exist. Coyote names several pairings, including Gun Metal Green over Lapis.

Which membership levels cover them?

Mostly Yellow Level, with Forest at Green Level and Cherry and Lemon Cream at Purple Level.

From The Clay Hole University

More info about Satin below, but first... Everything we teach about glazing, written down and taught properly. These are the glaze lessons, and they are a small corner of a library that runs from centering your first pot to selling your work.

Glaze Brushing Techniques, Coat by Coat GuideGlaze Brushing Techniques, Coat by Coat Glazing Big and Intricate Pottery Faster GuideGlazing Big and Intricate Pottery Faster Getting the Most Out of the Mega Glaze Tool GuideGetting the Most Out of the Mega Glaze Tool Making, Logging and Dialing in Test Tiles GuideMaking, Logging and Dialing in Test Tiles Glaze Problems, Causes and Fixes GuideGlaze Problems, Causes and Fixes Glazing on the Wheel for Even Coats and Clean Bands GuideGlazing on the Wheel for Even Coats and Clean Bands Bubble Glaze with Dish Soap GuideBubble Glaze with Dish Soap Mixing Your Own Glazes: What It Actually Involves GuideMixing Your Own Glazes: What It Actually Involves Making a Glaze Catcher GuideMaking a Glaze Catcher Oxide and Carbonate Washes GuideOxide and Carbonate Washes When to Use Celadon Glazes GuideWhen to Use Celadon Glazes How to Use Dipping Glazes GuideHow to Use Dipping Glazes How to Use Underglaze: Techniques, Rules and Firing UnderglazeHow to Use Underglaze: Techniques, Rules and Firing Mishima: How to Inlay Slip and Underglaze into Carved Lines UnderglazeMishima: How to Inlay Slip and Underglaze into Carved Lines Wipe-Away Texture: Underglaze and Oxide Washes on Bisque UnderglazeWipe-Away Texture: Underglaze and Oxide Washes on Bisque
Browse all 170+ lessons and guides
Browse every glaze and underglaze we carryAll Coyote glazesFind one on our shelves
Test tile pots lined up on the glaze shelves at The Clay Hole

The Satin test tile pot

Every glaze family on our shelves has its own test tile pot, and it is the fastest way to decide what to put on a piece. It is a fired pot wearing the whole family, one numbered tile per glaze, on a surface built to show you what that glaze actually does rather than just what color it is.

Look for Coyote Satin written on the rim. Each glaze on this page carries its tile number, and the numbers run around the pot.

One trick worth knowing

Some glazes tell you loudly that they run. Others hide it. Look at how the brushed lines fired: crisp edges mean a stable glaze, and edges that went soft and fluid mean it moved, and it will move on your pot too.

About these images and what your pot will actually look like

We have done our best to represent every glaze here accurately, and you should still expect your pot to look different from what is on this screen.

Our glaze tile images are digitally created. They are built to show the character of a glaze, not to be a color match.

A screen is not a printout, a printout is not a test tile, and a test tile is not a finished pot. Each step in that chain shifts what a glaze looks like, sometimes a lot.

On top of that, the pottery itself changes the result: the clay body, how thick the glaze went on, whether it was brushed, dipped or sprayed, what was layered under or over it, where the piece sat in the kiln, how hot that spot ran, how fast it cooled, what was fired next to it, and how much texture the surface had. Two pots glazed from the same jar on the same day can come out different.

Treat every image here as a starting point, and treat a test tile fired on your own clay as the real answer.

Download the PDF