The welcome booklet

The whole studio, in a book you can keep

We hand a printed copy of this to every new member on their first night, along with their rewards card. It started as a first-day guide. It is now 56 pages that answer almost everything a member asks in the first year, and plenty they ask in the third.

Everything in it is below, on this page, in full. Read it here, search it when something comes up mid-class, or take the PDF with you.

  • 56pages
  • 8sections
  • 51topics
  • 41glossary words

3.6 MB, 56 pages. The printed copy is handed out at the studio. Nobody needs to print this one.

The new Clay Hole welcome booklet open on a counter beside a sponge, a wooden rib and two loop tools
How to use it

Read it like a book. Use it like a toolbox.

Front to back, it follows a pot from wet clay to a kitchen, with detours for the people and the fun stuff. Or search one word and land on the one answer you need, which is what most people do at the table with clay-covered hands.

Start to finish

The eight sections run in the order a pot does, from a first night to carrying a finished mug out to the car.

Every page has a short version

The long answer is there when it is wanted. The short version is the part that matters when your hands are covered.

Every page points somewhere

The printed book uses square codes. Here they are plain links, and they go to the page holding the current prices, times and dates.

Or turn the actual pages

The same 56 pages as the printed copy, laid out two at a time, in a flipbook you can page through. The link is at the top and the bottom of this page.

Section 1 of 8

Welcome

Your first night, the people, and how visits work.

Pages 2 to 10 · 9 topics

An instructor in a pink shirt helping a member at the wheel during an instructed class

Start here

Page 2

This book walks through all of it, from a first lump of clay to carrying a finished mug out to the car, and it assumes nobody has touched clay before. Anyone who has can skim.

Read it like a book. Front to back, it follows a pot from wet clay to a kitchen, with detours for the people and the fun stuff.

Use it like a toolbox. Every page has a short version for clay-covered hands, and the index finds anything fast.

The square codes. Every page carries one or two. Pointing a phone camera at one opens the whole story online, with the current prices, times and dates. Those change too often to print.

A note from the guy who started this

Page 3

Dan Pearce founded The Clay Hole. Page three is his, in his own words, and it is the one page of the book the studio does not speak for.

Dan Pearce standing at a studio table with Mud, the studio dog, beside him

“I took my first pottery class in 2020. The wheel took me weeks to figure out, and the best year I ever had making pottery was the year I was worst at it. Everything was a surprise. A cylinder that didn’t collapse was a miracle. A lid that actually fit, I carried around the house to show people.”

So here’s the one thing I’d want you to know before you start: let yourself be bad at this for a while. Being bad at something isn’t the toll you pay to get into a hobby. It is the hobby. Clay humbles every one of us equally. Laugh at what you make, and be weirdly proud of it anyway.

Dan Pearce, founder

Mud. Mud is the studio dog. Clean hands first, then he would very much like to be told he is a good boy. Belly rubs are endless. If he has taken himself off to a quiet spot, he is off the clock.

Your first night, start to finish

Page 4

The first night is the only awkward one. After that it is just somebody who does pottery on Tuesdays. Here is exactly how it goes, so nothing catches anyone off guard.

Before you walk in
  • Sign the member waiver. Nobody comes to class until it is signed.
  • Watch the orientation video. There is a secret password hidden in it.
  • Text the studio which day you are coming, so someone is watching the door.
  • Wheel tonight? The whole wheel video comes first. Slab rollers and slab molds have their own.
  1. Find a pink shirtWalk in and look for an instructor in pink.
  2. Check inTell us the password.
  3. Settle inWe hand over this booklet and you find a spot for your bag. You will not be the only new face.
  4. Take the tourWheels, tables, slab rollers, The Mold Room, glazes, The Wash Pit, bathrooms, your shelf, the Commandments, the signature wall and every way to make things here.
  5. Buy your first bag of clayRight from your phone, with one of us beside you.
  6. Get your shelfWith your name on it.
  7. Hands in clayFirst wheel lessons happen now, for anyone who arrived on time. Then you have hours to play.
  8. Ding dingWhen the bell rings, it is cleanup time. It startles everyone the first time. Clean your area, then one more spot.
  9. Tuck your piece inCovered, on your shelf. Then a quick goodbye, or slip out quietly.
The short version
  • First visit is an instructed class, and just you. No guests that night.
  • Running late? Text us, come anyway, hand-build that night, wheel next time.

Dress like the clay is going to win

Page 5

Clay gets everywhere: sleeves, shoes, somehow an eyebrow. It washes out of most fabric. Most.

Clothes and shoes. Wear things you do not mind soiling, and closed-toe shoes with some grip. Rings off before you start, long hair tied back, sleeves that stay out of the way.

Nails. Not a rule. But short nails make the wheel dramatically easier, because long ones carve grooves into spinning clay. We sell clippers at the studio in case the wheel wins someone over mid-class.

What to bring. An apron and a towel if you like them. Neither is included at any level, and an apron lives folded on your shelf between visits. A water bottle with a lid. Drinks at the studio run on trust: grab one, then pay on the website from your phone.

Green Level Members bring tools. A few sponges, a needle tool, a rib or two and a potter’s knife, plus brushes for glazing. Forgotten them? We sell tool kits at the studio for exactly that.

Bags and coats. Free lockers and cubbies during class. First come, first served, and they do not lock.

The short version
  • Clothes you can ruin, closed-toe shoes.
  • Rings off, long hair back.
  • Short nails if you are throwing.
  • Water bottle with a lid.
  • Green Level: your own tools, sponges and brushes.

Chatty or quiet, there is a seat for you

Page 6

Some people talk all night. Some barely say a word and have the best night of their week. Both are doing it right. Nobody here runs icebreakers or assigns partners.

Pick your vibe. Some classes are calm and quiet. Others are livelier, with snacks, the occasional drink and language that is not especially filtered. Ask an instructor which ones fit, and take a breather whenever. Nobody minds.

Want a nudge? Tell any instructor you would like to meet people. We are good at starting conversations.

The icebreaker is already on the table. Every station has a name stand, so nobody has to ask twice. Ask someone how they got that rim, that texture, that handle. Potters will talk about a handle for ten minutes. Just never touch their pottery without a yes: unfired work is shockingly fragile.

Frequency beats personality. Come the same night each week and you will usually see the same faces. Then one night somebody says, “Hey, where were you last week?” That sentence is the whole thing.

The short version
  • Sit anywhere. Work quietly or chat all night.
  • Want a calmer class? Ask which ones.
  • Want introductions? Ask an instructor.
  • Clean hands before petting Mud.

The shirt tells you who to ask

Page 7

Three colors work the floor, each with its own job. Instructed classes have pink and purple shirts at the wheels and tables.

Main instructors

Pink

Open the studio, lead instructed classes, give first-night tours, hand out shelves. Ask them anything: pottery, policy, membership, billing.

Trade instructors

Purple

Experienced potters who teach a shift a week in trade for their membership. Any pottery question. Membership question? They will send you to pink, on purpose.

Open studio managers

Baby blue

They run open studio time: open up, keep the room going, make sure cleanup happens, help with clay, lock up. They do not teach.

No set color. The owner, general manager, studio manager and creative team. The studio manager keeps the building running and does not take member questions, on purpose.

Something sensitive. A problem, a dispute, or anything too big for a text goes to the general manager or the owner, one on one.

The short version
  • Pink: anything at all, including billing.
  • Purple: any pottery question.
  • Baby blue: runs open studio, does not teach.
  • Sensitive: general manager or owner.

Two ways to spend a visit

Page 8

Every visit uses one class from a membership, whichever kind it is. The only difference is whether anyone is teaching. Most people end up loving both.

Help on hand

Instructed class

Instructors at the wheels and at the tables, walking around helping. There is no curriculum and nobody hands out an assignment: you work on whatever you want, and when you get stuck, you wave someone over. This is where the learning happens.

Bring a known project

Open studio time

Nobody teaches. A baby blue shirt runs the room and the cleanup checklist. Instructors might be there making their own work, but they are off the clock, same as everyone. Bring something to tackle alone, and save the questions for the next instructed class.

Before a first open studio. New to pottery? Two instructed classes first, or one for anyone who already knew their way around clay when they joined. A very first visit is always an instructed class, no matter how experienced.

A naming quirk. You will sometimes hear an instructed class called an “open studio class,” because there is no set lesson. Open studio time is the one with no instructors. Confusing, and technically it is all open studio format.

The short version
  • Either kind uses one class.
  • Instructed: help on hand.
  • Open studio: no teaching, bring a known project.
  • Two instructed classes before a first open studio.

No reservations. Just show up.

Page 9

There is no sign-up sheet, nothing to book and nobody to tell. Pick a class or open studio time that fits the week and walk in.

Arriving. Doors open shortly before class or open studio starts, and not a minute earlier. Nobody has to arrive at the start or stay until the end, with two exceptions: a first night, and a first wheel lesson, which only happens for people who arrive on time.

Leaving. Plan to be cleaned up and out the door when class ends. Not starting cleanup then. The cleanup bell is a 30-minute warning.

Closures. We close for a short list of holidays each year. Closures are not refunded, and nothing is lost either: the class you would have used just waits with the rest. Weather closures come by email.

The fun stuff. Karaoke and trivia nights, parties, free weeks and workshops all land on the studio calendar. Workshops are separate from membership and booked on their own.

Keep the momentum. Pick the next visit before leaving this one. Momentum is half the hobby.

The short version
  • Nothing to book, ever.
  • Doors open shortly before, never earlier.
  • Cleaned up and out by the end.

Hear it before you find a locked door

Page 10

We send three kinds of email, and each has one job. Sign up for the ones you want. Leaving one never takes anyone off the others.

  1. New member emailsYour first weeks, a step at a time, starting with your first day and the required watching.
  2. Studio announcementsThe important one. Holiday and weather closures, the kiln deadline before a closure, contests, parties, free weeks, and any change to memberships or the studio.
  3. The daily cardThe same affirmation cards that sit face down at every seat, one a day in your inbox.

Not getting them? Check the spam folder and the promotions tab. Still nothing? Text the studio and a real person will sort it out.

The short version
  • Announcements means closures and news. Get on that one, for sure.
  • Weather closures only come by email.
  • Missing emails? Check promotions, then text us.
Section 2 of 8

Membership

Levels, saved classes, rewards, your shelf, costs.

Pages 11 to 15, 50 to 52 · 5 topics

A member holding up a Clay Hole rewards card in the studio

Your color, and every color below it

Page 11

Every membership has a color, and around the studio, tools and glazes wear colored stickers too. Slab molds get a colored dot. The rule: your color unlocks your color, plus every color below it. Never a color above it. Nobody checks a list, and nobody has to ask.

Green Level

The bring-your-own-tools level. Green glazes, the smaller slab molds, and your own half of a shared shelf with your name on it.

Yellow Level

The studio toolbox opens, so your bag can stay home, plus more glazes, bigger slab molds, a taller half-shelf and a little off every bag of clay.

Purple Level

Where almost everybody ends up. Thousands of tools, the bladed ones too, most of the glaze wall, slab molds up through the XXLs, most dipping glazes, a private shelf, first pick on workshops.

Black Level

Almost everything in the building: every glaze, some of the giant slab molds, the fanciest tools, every dipping glaze, and the biggest shelf. Kept to a small number, on purpose.

Orange sticker? That is not a level. No level unlocks it, not even Black Level, and instructors cannot use it either. Anyone is welcome to buy it for themselves.

Certified is not the same as unlocked. Certifications for glazing, dipping, slab molds and raku teach you to use something safely. They never open anything above your color.

Changing levels. Upgrade from your phone mid-month, even mid-class, and the new stuff is yours right away. A bigger shelf is assigned in person, and after renewal day it counts toward next month. Moving down starts next month; just text us. Levels change up to twice a year.

The short version
  • Your color, plus every color below it. Never above.
  • Higher levels unlock more stuff, not better treatment.

Your unused classes wait for you

Page 12

Busy month, sick week, a trip. The classes already paid for do not vanish at the end of the month. They wait, with no cap and no expiration date, for as long as the membership runs.

How it counts. Every visit uses one class, instructed or open studio, same either way. Use them as life allows: skip two weeks, then come three nights in a row to work through a pile. Completely fine.

The honor system. Nobody scans anyone in. There is no clipboard at the door. We run this place on trust, which means the real count is the one you keep. Jot each visit in your phone, or use the printable tracker.

Went over? It happens. Tell a pink shirt as soon as you realize. For anyone staying on, we usually take it off next month and call it even.

The catch. Canceling wipes out every unused class, permanently, even for someone who rejoins later. Pausing keeps them all.

The short version
  • Unused classes carry forward, no cap.
  • Instructed or open studio: one class each.
  • Keep your own count.
  • Canceling erases them. Pausing keeps them.

Stick around. Rewards get more epic by the month.

Page 13

Every paid month earns a punch on a rewards card, and punches unlock things: free glaze firings, free clay, a free friend pass, a t-shirt, even a free month. Stay long enough and some of them repeat for life.

How it works. There is nothing to sign up for. Wait for the punch before redeeming, because the punch is the receipt. Rewards open with the month, they can be used in any order, and they do not expire while a membership runs.

Guard the card. It is the only record. We do not track punches on our end, so a lost card takes its saved rewards with it. The card is roughly the size of a sheet of paper and people still lose it constantly. Check the car.

Pausing and canceling. Paused months do not count toward it or against it. Canceling sends it back to zero. Rewards belong to one person and cannot be handed to someone else.

Using a free firing. It covers a glaze firing, with a size limit on the longest side. Mark it as a reward on the kiln ticket; the rewards page shows exactly what to write.

The short version
  • Every paid month is one punch.
  • No punch yet? Not redeemable yet.
  • Lose the card, lose what is saved on it.
  • Canceling resets it to zero.

Your shelf is home base

Page 14

A shelf comes with the first night, name already on it. It holds clay, tools, an apron and everything in progress between visits. The shelf grows as the level does.

Stay inside the lines. Everything lives within your own space. On Green Level and Yellow Level that is your side of the divided shelf. Leave breathing room around fragile rims and handles.

Store it right. Wet work sits on a plastic bat, covered, with a name and the date on the bat. Never on a wooden bat, and never left on a slab mold. Clay that needs to stay soft stays in its bag, made airtight.

The tables are not storage. The drop-off and pickup tables move work through the kilns. Anything left on a pickup table past its deadline is tossed.

Hands off other shelves. A handle can be a week of somebody’s life.

Bags and coats. Free lockers and cubbies during class. First come, first served, no locks.

The short version
  • Your space only, rims and handles clear.
  • Plastic bats, never wooden.
  • Name and date on every bat.
  • Pickup tables are not storage.

What pottery actually costs

Page 15

A membership covers classes, the instructors, a shelf and everything that color unlocks. Two things are not included at any level: clay and glaze firings. Here is how both work, so nothing surprises anyone.

Always bought here

Clay

Never brought in. Bought by the bag from your phone. Higher levels pay a little less per bag.

Free

Bisque firing

Every time.

Priced by kiln space

Glaze firing

Length times width times height at the widest points. Measure, pay online, then drop off. A refire costs the same again.

Pay as you go

Extras you choose

Glazes with an upcharge sticker, per glaze and per piece. Dipping at Green Level and Yellow Level. Flux glazes and workshops like raku. Drinks, small tools and pre-made cookies run on trust: pay from your phone.

Oops costs. Break a slab mold through carelessness, ruin glaze or a dipping bucket by skipping the rules, or ruin a wooden bat by storing work on it, and you replace it. Normal wear and tear is on us.

The short version
  • Check the cost before you start, not after. A bigger piece does not just use more clay. It uses more kiln.
Section 3 of 8

Pottery 101

How a pot gets made, and the words for everything.

Pages 16 to 20, 53 · 5 topics

A row of pottery tools laid out on a wooden surface: ribs, loop tools, a needle tool and a wire

How a lump of clay becomes a mug

Page 16

Every pot takes the same trip: make it, dry it, fire it, glaze it, fire it again. You only touch it four times. Pottery is not slow, exactly. It is mostly waiting, which feels identical.

  1. Make itPinch it, coil it, roll it into slabs or throw it on the wheel. Wet clay forgives everything, so squash it and start over as often as you like.
  2. Refine it and sign itOnce it firms up to leather hard, trim it, carve it, attach the handle and scratch your maker’s mark into the bottom.
  3. Dry it, then bisque itLet it dry slowly and completely, then set it on the bone-dry drop-off table. We fire it for free, and it comes back hard, pale and ready for glaze.
  4. Glaze itBrush it or dip it, wipe the bottom bare, pay for the glaze firing, and drop it off with a cookie underneath and a kiln ticket.
  5. Take it homeThe glaze firing melts the glaze into glass and turns the clay into stoneware. Collect it before the deadline on its card.

You never touch a kiln. Staff load, fire and unload every one. Once a piece is on a table, the job is done until it comes back.

Allow weeks, not days. A first piece usually takes a month or two from wet clay to a kitchen. Do not promise anyone a birthday mug for next Friday.

The short version
  • Everything before the first firing is recoverable. Nothing after it is. So be bold with wet clay, and careful about what goes to the kiln.

Five stages, five personalities

Page 17

Clay is mostly clay and water. As the water leaves, the clay changes what it will let you do. Three stages happen in the air and two happen in fire. Learn to recognize each one and half of pottery suddenly makes sense.

  1. Wet (In the air)Soft, squishy and endlessly forgiving. Build, pinch, coil, throw. Squash it and start again as many times as you like.
  2. Leather hard (In the air)Firm enough to hold its shape, still damp enough to carve. It feels like cold cheddar: a fingernail dents it, a thumb does not. Softer is for attaching; firmer is for trimming and carving.
  3. Bone dry (In the air)All the water that can leave has left. Pale, chalky, and the most fragile it will ever be. Handle it like it is made of crackers: two hands, from underneath, never by the handle.
  4. Bisque (In the fire)Fired once. Hard, porous and thirsty, which is exactly what glaze needs. Tap it and it dings.
  5. Stoneware (In the fire)Fired twice at this point: glaze melted into real glass, dense and permanent. It will never be clay again.
The short version
  • Once it is bone dry, the shaping is over. Anything that needs changing, change it earlier.
  • Dry-looking is not the same as dry.

Meet the clays

Page 18

Every clay we carry is made for the same kiln temperature, but each one feels different in the hands and looks different after the fire. Potters call a clay recipe a clay body. Here is the short personality of each.

52 BuffThe least fussy clay in the room. Smooth, warm, forgiving. Start here.
B-MixPorcelain-smooth, fires a clean cream. Smooth means less forgiving.
B-Mix with GrogA little toothy, much more forgiving for it. Our go-to for raku.
B-Mix with SpecksFires warm white with iron speckle. Likes slow drying.
Speckled BuffDesert tan with dark speckle. A lovely clay to throw.
Half & HalfWhite stoneware and porcelain, half and half. Our densest clay.
#16 PorcelainReal porcelain, dead white. Gorgeous, and not a bag to learn on.
Berlin GrayFires anywhere from cement to dark gray. Our only dark clay.

The first few bags. 52 Buff, or B-Mix with Grog. Leave porcelain and the smooth clays until centering feels dependable. Grog forgives you. Porcelain does not.

Keep it happy. Close the bag the second you are done, push the air out, and keep it out of the sun and away from heat. A stiff bag usually is not dry, just tight; slam it on the table a few times to wake it up.

The short version
  • Only clay bought from us comes through the door. Every clay matures at its own temperature, and one wrong clay can melt onto a kiln shelf and take other people’s work, and the kiln, with it. Whoever brings it in pays for the damage. Clay bought from us is yours: take it home, bring it back.

Meet your tools

Page 19

A potter’s kit is mostly humble stuff: some sponges, a few sticks and scrapers, a wire. Each one has a specific job. Learn the jobs and the right one comes to hand without thinking.

SpongeSoaks up water, smooths surfaces, softens rims. Bring two. A fresh join wants a damp brush instead.
Needle toolThe pencil of pottery. Scores joins, levels a wobbly rim, pops air bubbles, checks floor thickness, signs your name.
RibA flat, curved scraper in metal, wood or soft rubber. Smooths and firms a surface, shapes curves, scrapes off slurry. On slab molds, use a soft rubber one.
Potter’s knifeCuts slabs, trims edges, carves. On a slab mold, use a wooden one so you do not shave the mold.
Wire toolA wire with a handle at each end. Slices clay off the block and cuts finished pots off the wheel.
Loop toolsWire loops on a handle for trimming and carving leather-hard clay.
Wooden modeling toolBlends seams, pushes clay across joins, shapes details.
BatsRemovable boards, so a pot can be lifted off the wheel without touching it. Store work on plastic ones only.
The short version
  • Green Level brings the basics: sponges, a needle tool, a rib or two, a potter’s knife, plus brushes. Every level above finds hundreds of tools waiting, stickered by color.
  • Stamps, texture rollers, the wheels and the slab rollers are there for everyone. Extruders unlock by level.

A pot has a body, and the parts have names

Page 20

Potters describe pots the way you would describe a person: lip, neck, shoulder, belly, foot. Learn the names once and every instruction you hear gets easier to follow.

LipThe very top edge, where your mouth meets a cup.
RimThe top edge and the band just below it. Thin, first to dry, first to chip.
NeckThe narrow part under the rim of a vase or bottle.
ShoulderWhere the pot turns outward below the neck.
BellyThe widest, roundest part.
WallThe side of the pot, rim to floor. Even walls dry evenly.
FloorThe inside bottom. Press it firm or it cracks.
FootWhat the pot stands on. It stays bare of glaze.
Foot ringA raised ring trimmed into the bottom of a bowl, like a little pedestal. It lifts the bowl and keeps glaze well away from the kiln shelf.
HandleJoined at two points, top and bottom. It has to be the same wetness as the mug.
GalleryThe little ledge inside a jar’s rim that a lid sits on.
ProfileA pot’s outline seen from the side. Potters judge a form by its profile.
The short version
  • “Keep glaze off the foot.” “Compress the floor.” “Rims dry first.” You will hear these every week. Now you know what they mean.
Section 4 of 8

Make

Hand-building, slab molds, the wheel, drying.

Pages 21 to 28 · 8 topics

An instructor guiding a member's hands on a centered lump of clay at the wheel

The wheel is just one door in

Page 21

Most people arrive wanting the wheel. But on a normal class night, most of the room is at the tables: pinching, coiling, carving, pressing slabs into slab molds. The wheel is a wonderful tool and sometimes a terrible first impression.

The options. Pinch, coil, slab and drape. Slab rollers and slab molds. The wheel. Underglaze and carving for decorating. And raku, when you are ready for actual fire.

What needs training first. Pinching, coiling, slab building and carving need nothing but your hands. Slab rollers and slab molds, glaze and underglaze, and dipping each need a short certification first, and the wheel needs its video.

Three tries, then decide. The first try is confusion. The second is mechanics. Only the third is an opinion. Give anything three tries, on three separate visits, before deciding it is not for you.

Not sure where to start? Love drawing? Underglaze and carving. Love building things? Slab boxes. Want a quick win? A slab mold. Like the wheel but hate centering? Ask about throwing off the hump. Still not sure? Tell an instructor what you would love to make, and they will point you to the best way in.

The short version
  • Most of the room is at the tables, not the wheels.
  • Three tries, three visits, then decide.
  • Tell an instructor what you love. They will point you somewhere.

Four moves. Endless pots.

Page 22

Hand-building is pottery without a wheel, and almost anything you can imagine can be built this way. There are only four moves, and no fifth one waiting later. Everything else is combining these.

Pinch

Press your thumb into a ball of clay and squeeze the wall thinner as you turn it. A pinch bowl is a real first piece, not a practice one.

Coil

Roll ropes of clay and stack them, blending each one into the last. Some of the oldest pots in the world were built exactly this way.

Slab

Roll clay into flat sheets, then cut, bend and join them into boxes, trays, mugs and anything else you can draw.

Drape

Lay a slab over or into a form, a bowl or a slab mold, and let it take the shape.

Sculpture. Figures, creatures and things nobody has a name for yet are combinations of the same four moves. Ask about hollowing before getting attached.

The short version
  • Keep everything the same thickness. A quarter inch is a good default.
  • Score and slip every join.
  • Only join clay at the same firmness.
  • Hollow it out, or keep it under an inch thick.
  • Slow the outside down while it dries.

Roll a slab, borrow a shape

Page 23

A slab roller presses clay into a perfectly even sheet. A slab mold holds that sheet in a shape while it firms up: a bowl, a platter, a tray. The rim, the foot, the texture and the glaze are still yours. It is creating, not cheating.

A member pressing a clay slab into a slab mold at a studio table

Get certified first. Everyone does the slab training before their first time, even anyone who has used a roller somewhere else: a video, the rules, a signature. Do it once and it lasts as long as the membership. Save the card to show an instructor.

Which slab molds are yours? Look for the colored dot on the foam rail. Your color or anything below it, never above. If the dot and the website ever disagree, the dot wins. Black Level slab molds have one extra rule: a first time with one is supervised, so ask first.

The never list. Never heat a slab mold. Never scrape a sharp tool against one, or cut down into it while trimming. Never wash one: a dry cloth, scrubbed well, is all it gets, and leftover clay is fine as long as the surface is smooth. Never knock one on a hard edge. Never force the roller’s wheel.

The always list. One slab mold at a time. Back to the exact spot in The Mold Room where you found it, and a photo helps. Your piece comes off the slab mold before you leave, then dries upside down on a big plastic bat on your shelf.

Break one? You replace it. Normal wear and tear is on us.

The short version
  • Certified before your first use.
  • Your color or below.
  • Dry cloth only. Never water.
  • Exact spot back, piece off before you go.

The Book of Molds

Page 24

We have 248 slab molds, plenty of them in multiples, and The Book of Molds is how to find the right one without wandering The Mold Room for an hour.

What every listing tells you. Its level and difficulty, from Beginner all the way up to Insane, which is not a joke rating. What it makes, how much clay to start with, how thick to roll the slab, whether it needs plastic wrap first, and who it suits.

Start with the thing you want to make. Filter by your level and by what you want, then tap the heart on the ones you love to build a list.

Three ways to read it. Online, as a free PDF, or on paper. Studio copies are there to flip through anytime, and every mold card in the book has a code that opens it online. The printed book for home is custom printed and bound, and nobody ever has to buy it to use the slab molds.

Slab molds have names. The Behemoth. Big Bertha Bowl. Ghosts & Such. Somebody had fun.

The short version
  • Filter by your level first.
  • Check the clay and slab thickness first.
  • New to it? Turn on “add 30% more clay.” Extra clay is cheaper than a short slab.

The wheel: humbling first, then magic

Page 25

The wheel is harder than it looks. Most people need a few weeks before it feels like anything at all. That is the normal experience, not the sad one. Come to play, and laugh when it collapses. It will collapse, and it is funny when it does.

“Remember, fast wheel, slow movements.”

Heard at the wheels, roughly weekly

Before a first spin. Watch the wheel video all the way through: a lump from the bag to a finished cylinder at real speed, nothing sped up. First wheel lessons happen at the start of class, so being on time matters.

The moves, in order. Wedge the clay, which means kneading the air out. Center it, so the spinning lump sits perfectly still. Open it: press down the middle and pull out a floor. Compress the floor. Pull the wall up, two or three times. Shape it, finish the rim, cut it off with a wire. Each move is its own skill, and they rarely all show up on the same night.

Start with cylinders. Just cylinders, from one to two pounds of clay. Ignore trimming, handles and lids for now. Ninety minutes of wheel time is usually plenty at first.

Afterward. Leave the pot on its bat for a little while, then move it to a plastic storage bat. Trimming, which means carving a neat foot into the bottom later, is a choice and not a requirement.

The short version
  • Watch the wheel video first.
  • On time for a first lesson.
  • Cylinders only, one to two pounds.
  • Ask an instructor to watch one pull.

Six first projects worth finishing

Page 26

The best first project is one that actually gets finished. Taking one small piece all the way from wet clay to a kitchen teaches more than starting three big ones that never leave the shelf.

Teaches the pinch

Pinch bowl

Two hands and a ball of clay.

Teaches a clean edge

Ring dish

A textured slab circle, dried in a bowl.

Teaches wrapping a wall

Slab mug

A wall, a floor and a handle.

Teaches texture

Spoon rest

One slab, twenty minutes, and it lives by the stove forever.

Teaches planning for a job

Planter

Coils or a wrapped slab, and a real drainage hole.

Teaches the slab

Slab tray

Cut clean, join square, dry flat.

Plan it, or wing it? Both count. Some nights you walk in with a plan; some nights you just want to see what happens. Lids, sets and anything that has to fit something always need a plan, and clay shrinks roughly 12% between wet and finished, so size up. Everything else follows curiosity.

The short version
  • A finished bad pot is worth ten abandoned good ideas.

Fix it now. Fired is forever.

Page 27

Leather hard is the sweet spot: firm enough to hold its shape, soft enough to carve. It is the last good chance to smooth that rim, attach that handle and sign your name. After the first firing, what is there is there.

Refine the rim. Smooth it with a damp sponge or a scrap of chamois while it still gives. Fix a bad rim now, never with sandpaper later.

Make the join hold. A join is not glue. It is a weld. Match the wetness of both pieces. Crosshatch both surfaces. Brush on slip made from your own clay, thick as heavy cream. Press and wiggle until a little bead squeezes out, and that bead is the receipt. Blend clay across the seam, add a thin coil in the inside corner, and clean up with a damp brush, never a wet sponge.

Sign it. Scratch your maker’s mark into the bottom with the tool of your choice, and write the clay body down somewhere too. In three weeks nobody remembers which clay it was.

The rescue kit. Clay Mender, which we sell, is for rescues rather than a method. A fired foot that needs grinding smooth is a job for a Dremel at home.

The short version
  • Same wetness. Score both sides. Slip. Press until it beads.
  • If a fingernail can find a crack, the kiln can too.

Drying is part of making

Page 28

A crack is two parts of the same piece shrinking at different times. Rims and handles dry fast, thick bases dry slow, and cracks are born in the gap. The job: slow the fast parts down so the slow parts can catch up.

Plastic is a brake. The more air in the bag, the more drying. Squeeze the air out and it is still soft next week. Leave a little air and it is leather hard by next class. Tent the bag loosely over the piece, using the smallest bag that fits. Bags and plastic sheeting are free for everyone. Put them back afterward.

Cotton sheets. They wick moisture evenly and dry faster than bags. Purple Level and Black Level share the studio basket, back in dry please. Green Level and Yellow Level can bring their own, 100% high thread count cotton.

Where it lives. On a plastic bat, never a wooden one, with a name and the date on the bat. Heat lamps are never for trying to fully dry a finished piece.

The one-week rule. A finished piece sits a week uncovered before it goes to the bone-dry table. Putting a piece out means saying it is dry, and putting wet work out again and again can cost a membership.

Is it really dry? Turn it over. Hold the bottom to a cheek: cold means no. Look for one even, pale color. When in doubt, wait.

Going away? Keep bone-dry work on your shelf and drop it off on return, so no pickup clock runs while nobody is here. Something already in the kilns? Tell a pink shirt before leaving, with no guarantees we can find it.

The short version
  • Slow the fast parts down.
  • Plastic bats only, name and date.
  • A week uncovered before drop-off.
  • Cold on your cheek means not dry yet.
Section 5 of 8

Glaze & fire

Glaze, kilns, and getting your piece home.

Pages 29 to 37 · 9 topics

A member lowering a bisque pot into a large bucket of dipping glaze

The four tables

Page 29

Four sets of tables move every piece through the kilns: two for the first firing, two for the second. Learn them once and nobody wonders where anything goes.

Table 1 · First firing

Bone-dry drop-off

One hundred percent dry, or not at all. Maker’s mark on the bottom, hollow pieces only. Set it down as far to the left as you can reach without touching anyone else’s work, then walk away. No ticket, nothing to pay: the bisque firing is free.

Table 2 · First firing

Bisqueware pickup

When a piece comes out of the kiln, a card goes in or on it with the pickup deadline in writing. The clock starts when the kiln is unloaded, not at the next visit, and there is no email or text. The card is the notice, so check the tables every visit.

Table 3 · Second firing

Glazeware drop-off

The only table with a gate, because only paid pieces go on it.

Table 4 · Second firing

Finished-piece pickup

A card with the deadline goes in or on the piece. Two weeks, then it is tossed.

The short version
  • Never move or touch someone else’s piece. Table full, or something broken, moved or missing? Find one of us instead of tidying it yourself.
  • Drop off and pick up during class or open studio time only.

Glaze: the chalky coat that turns to glass

Page 30

Glaze goes on looking like colored mud. In the final firing it melts into a real layer of glass: glossy or matte, speckled, pooling, breaking over edges. The color in the jar tells you almost nothing about the result, which is half the fun and all of the suspense.

Glaze or underglaze? Underglaze is color that stays exactly where you put it, made for painting and drawing. Glaze melts and moves. On anything that will hold food or drink, underglaze needs clear glaze over it.

Get certified first. Before a first glaze, do the online glaze and underglaze certification: a video, the rules, a quick check and an agreement. Save the card and show an instructor.

The jar rules. Spoon what you need into the smallest cup that works; a brush never goes into a jar. Stir, never shake, with Stroke & Coat bottles the one exception. Never add water. If a glaze looks thick, grab an instructor. Lid on while you work, threads wiped before it closes, jar back in its own spot.

How to brush. Flash-rinse the bisque first, a quick rinse and not a soak. Then three coats: horizontal, vertical, diagonal. Wipe the bottom completely bare.

Your colors. Jars wear level stickers like everything else. Gold means raku and low-fire, which never go in a regular firing. Green Level brings its own brushes.

The short version
  • Certified before your first glaze.
  • A brush never goes in a jar.
  • Stir, never shake. Never add water.
  • Three coats, bare bottom.

Dipping: the big buckets

Page 31

Dipping is exactly what it sounds like: hold a piece and dunk it in a big bucket of glaze for a smooth, even coat in seconds. The house dipping glazes have names like Blue Hole, Creamed Ice, Tamjoda and Dan’s Secret Sauce, stable or runny, always a surprise.

Its own certification. Separate from brush-on, and required at every level before a first dip. The password is in the video.

Who dips. Included at Purple Level, all but Dan’s Secret Sauce, and at Black Level. Green Level and Yellow Level can dip too, paying per piece.

The routine. Wax the bottom, and wax for dipping is included for everyone, then let it dry completely. Rinse and rub the piece with cold water. Blow the dust off the closed lid. Use only the whisk assigned to that bucket, and mix for at least two minutes. Dip for the time written on the lid. Let it drain completely. One piece, one dipping glaze. Touch up only once it is dry. Lid all the way back on.

What ruins a bucket. Wet wax, unfired underglaze, brushed-on glaze, dirty tools, dust, floor gunk and mixing glazes. A ruined bucket is expensive, and whoever ruins it replaces it. There are no strikes on these rules.

The short version
  • Something fell in? Never reach in after it. Find a pink shirt. They have a way to get it out. You do not.

The Glaze Bible

Page 32

Every glaze and underglaze we stock, showing what to hope for while glazing. It is the closest thing to seeing the future.

What a page shows. The fired tile, the brand and family, which level can use it, flags like “good on texture” and “studio favorite,” what it does over another glaze, which clays suit it, and what went wrong if yours came out different.

Test before you commit. The same glaze looks different on different clays. Use the Bible as a starting point, then try anything you love on a small piece first.

Three ways to read it. Search it online, download the free PDF, or pick up the big printed copy, custom printed and bound, pickup only. It makes excellent bedtime reading.

Keep notes. Write down the clay, the glazes and how many coats. A beautiful result is twice as useful when it can be made again.

The short version
  • Look it up before you brush it.
  • Test on something small.
  • Write down what you did.

Find a glaze, then find the jar

Page 33

With 650+ glazes on the wall, choosing one can feel like ordering from a forty-page menu. Two free tools make it easy.

Helps you choose

Mega Glaze Tool

Filter by your level first, so nobody falls for a glaze they cannot use yet, then by color, sheen, texture and translucency. Tap the ones you like and it builds a list you can copy, print or share. Yes, there is confetti.

Shows you where it lives

Glaze Finder

Type a glaze name, brand or family and it shows exactly which shelf, row and slot it is sitting in on the glaze wall. Then walk straight to it. The wall photo hides a few secrets. Press and hold.

Put it back right. Wipe the threads, close the lid and return the jar to its exact spot, so the Finder stays right for the next person.

The short version
  • The Tool helps you choose. The Bible explains. The Finder shows you where it lives.

Will it be safe to eat from?

Page 34

Decide what the inside of a piece is for before glazing it. A gorgeous finish tells you nothing about whether it is safe to eat or drink from.

Every glaze has a rating. The Glaze Bible gives each one of four: rated for functional ware; cleared but not rated; outside of the pot only; or not dinnerware safe, which means never for food, at any thickness, on any pot.

Three things cancel a good rating. Crazing, which is a fine web of cracks where bacteria can live. Underfiring. And a coat that is too thin or has crawled. A rating says the recipe is sound. It does not certify your pot.

Liners are your friend. A liner is a glaze with one job: a dependable inside. It does not do anything interesting, and that is the point. Brush it on, because pouring glaze is forbidden here, take it just over the rim, then go wild on the outside.

Separate claims. Food safe, dishwasher safe and microwave safe are three different claims, and one never proves another. Layered glazes count as unproven even when each one is rated. Raku is never food safe.

The short version
  • Plan the inside first.
  • Clear over underglaze on anything for food.
  • Liner inside, fun outside.
  • Crazed means not for food.

Two glazes, one surprise

Page 35

Put one glaze over another and they melt into something neither one does alone. It is the most fun you can have with a brush, and sometimes the least predictable.

Order matters. The same two glazes reversed can look completely different. The glaze that is built to move goes on top.

A starting recipe. Two coats underneath, three over. Wait until each layer has gone chalky and lost its shine before adding the next.

Mind the foot. Layers run. Keep at least a quarter inch of bare clay above the foot, always.

Test first. Try a new pairing on something you will not mourn, and treat layered combinations as unproven for food.

The short version
  • Mover on top.
  • Two coats under, three over.
  • A quarter inch bare above the foot.
  • Test on something small.

What happens in the kiln

Page 36

A kiln does not dry a pot and it does not bake it. It rebuilds it, permanently. First the water leaves, then the clay burns clean, then the particles weld together. Cooling is half the firing.

Two kilns glowing hot with a potter watching from beside them

Two firings, two jobs. The bisque firing is demolition: it burns everything out and leaves the clay hard and porous. The glaze firing is construction: much hotter, it melts glaze into glass and fuses the clay into stoneware.

Heat is measured in cones. A cone measures heat and time together. A roast at 350 degrees for twenty minutes and one for two hours are not the same dinner. Our bisque goes to cone 05, and the zero is not a typo, and our glaze firing to what we call cone 5½.

Staff only. We load, program and unload every one of our 4 kilns. Kilns run when there is enough work to fill one, so a spot on the table is not a finish date. And we will not open a warm kiln early.

How a glaze firing is priced. Measure length, width and height at the widest points, count the cookie in the height, and round down to the nearest quarter inch. A piece 4 inches wide in one place and 8 in another is an 8-inch piece. The firing calculator does the math.

The short version
  • Never touch a kiln.
  • Measure the widest points, cookie included.
  • Pay before drop-off.
  • A refire costs the same again.

The last trip: glaze kiln to kitchen

Page 37

Glazed and gorgeous? Here is the drop-off routine, in order. Skip a step and it waits, or it does not fire at all.

  1. Bare bottomZero glaze on the bottom: wipe it bare, then keep glaze an eighth to a quarter inch above that, a full quarter if it is runny or layered.
  2. Cookie underneathEvery piece sits on a kiln cookie: a disc of clay rolled out like a thick pita, about three-quarters of an inch wider than whatever touches the shelf. Drips glue the cookie instead of the kiln shelf. Make one from scrap clay or buy one. Runny glaze on the outside needs a glaze catcher too. No cookie, no firing.
  3. Measure and pay onlineBefore dropping it off.
  4. Fill out a kiln ticketYour name, the date, your clay, every glaze and your order number. One per piece, tucked inside or under it.
  5. Set it on the glazeware drop-off tableIt is the only table with a gate, because only paid pieces go on it.

Then, finished-piece pickup. When the kiln is unloaded, a card with the deadline goes in or on the piece. Collect it during a class or open studio time within two weeks. After that it is tossed. Not stored, not sold. Tossed.

The risk. A crack or a blowup in the kiln is the risk of firing, and it belongs to the maker. If our loader causes it, you get an extra studio day to remake the piece.

The short version
  • Bare bottom, cookie, paid, ticket.
  • Check the pickup table every single visit.
Section 6 of 8

Studio life

Safety, cleanup and the Commandments.

Pages 38 to 40 · 3 topics

Three members cleaning their station together at the end of class

Small habits, safe studio

Page 38

Pottery is a safe craft practiced carelessly by almost everyone at some point. A few habits keep it safe for you and everyone around you.

Clean wet. Dry clay and glaze dust contain silica, which nobody wants in their lungs. So: damp rag, sponge, mop. No dry sweeping large amounts of dust, which just throws it back into the air. Sanding or scraping something dry? Mask on first.

Kilns are staff-only. Do not touch one, do not open one, and never go past the barricades. Assume they are hot, because they might be.

Shards happen. Closed-toe shoes, always. Broken pottery on the floor? Tell us, keep people back, and clean it up with a dustpan and a damp cloth, never fingers.

Hands and food. Keep food and drinks away from where raw clay and glaze are handled. Wash hands after glazing and before eating.

Ask first. Never used a tool before? Ask. Nobody has ever gotten in trouble for asking first.

If someone is hurt, tell the nearest instructor. In an emergency, call 911 first, then tell us.

The short version
  • Clean up dust wet.
  • Mask for anything dry and dusty.
  • Kilns are staff-only.
  • Closed-toe shoes, always.

We make the mess together. We clean it together.

Page 39

When the cleanup bell rings, cleanup starts. Every visit, everyone does three things: their own station, their own tools, and one more part of the studio.

At the wheel. Empty the wheel well into your bucket, and scraps go in the wet solids barrel. Damp-rag the whole station: pan, wheel head, cables, pedal, stool. White streaks mean it is not clean yet. Power off.

The sinks. This part matters. The clay sinks in The Wash Pit only take water tipped off the top of a settled clay bucket, poured through the sieve. Tools, rags and dipping tools go to the all-purpose sink. Wheel pans get scrubbed in the pan rinse barrels just outside The Wash Pit. Your slurry stays in your bucket, and the bucket goes on the drying cart. Clay never goes down a drain or into a sink.

Slab molds and bats. Slab molds are never washed: dry cloth, then back to their numbered spot in The Mold Room. Nothing gets stored on a slab mold or a wooden bat.

Your extra job. Pick one job from Option A, or two from Option B, on the cleanup checklist.

Out the door on time. Cleaned up and gone when class ends. Skipping cleanup again and again ends memberships.

The short version
  • Your station, your tools, one more spot.
  • Slurry stays in your bucket.
  • Clay never goes down a drain or into a sink.
  • Slab molds never get washed.

The Clay Hole Commandments

Page 40

Our house rules got a little dramatic. We take all ten seriously, and they boil down to one idea: don’t be an A-hole at The Clay Hole.

  1. Thou shalt always clean thine own messYou will never inherit a stranger’s mess. Not once.
  2. Thou shalt always clean another messy part of the studioThe place is cleaner at the end of class than at the start.
  3. Thou shalt follow every single glaze ruleYour work goes into every firing protected.
  4. Thou shalt pay for all clay and firingsYou get trusted like an adult from day one.
  5. Thou shalt not bring constant negativity or drama to the studioThe studio stays the lightest part of your week.
  6. Thou shalt not touch the pottery of thine classmates without permissionThe shelf your work dries on is a bank vault.
  7. Thou shalt not touch thine classmates without consentYou are completely in charge of your own space here.
  8. Thou shalt not sexually harass othersSafe means safe. Every seat, every night.
  9. Thou shalt not gossip endlesslyYour name is safe in this room.
  10. Thou shalt celebrate human differencesWhoever you are, you’re already one of us.
The short version
  • Something wrong? Talk to a pink shirt, or to the general manager or owner, one on one.
Section 7 of 8

Go further

Lessons, raku, the wall, and some very silly websites.

Pages 41 to 49 · 9 topics

A glowing raku pot being pulled from the fire at night

Clay Hole University

Page 41

209 free pottery lessons, written by us, each with a quiz at the end. No sign-up and no paywall. All of it is open to everybody, members or not.

Two depths. Comprehensive, for the whole story, which is excellent bed reading. Or Nutshell, for the one thing you need at your table right now.

How it is organized. The departments run in the order a pot does, from preparing clay to firing it, plus safety, studio life, Dan’s letters and a Take a Break department, exactly as silly as it sounds. Or just search your question.

Heads up. Many of the lessons cover things we do not do here, like slip casting.

Ask for a lesson. Stuck on something nothing covers? Request it. The best lessons came from members getting stuck.

The short version
  • Free, no sign-up.
  • Comprehensive or Nutshell.
  • Every lesson has a quiz.
  • Search your exact question.

One hobby. Endless rabbit holes.

Page 42

The members who have been here longest almost never do the thing they came in for. A mug turns into carving, carving turns into sculpture, sculpture turns into a lamp. A few holes worth falling into.

SgraffitoScratch through a layer of underglaze to draw with the clay underneath.
MishimaCarve fine lines, fill them with underglaze, scrape the surface clean. Crisp as ink.
CarvingRelief, faceting, deep clean lines.
StampsMake your own, maker’s mark included.
SprigsLittle molded decorations, pressed on.
NerikomiPatterns built from stacked colored clays.
KurinukiCarve a whole pot out of a solid block.
BurnishingPolishing clay to a soft sheen before it is fired.
SculptureFigures, creatures, characters.
Useful projectsLamp bases, a wall clock that actually works, jewelry.
The short version
  • Out of ideas? Walk the room. The finished work on the shelves around you is the best idea board there is.

Raku: pull it out while it is glowing

Page 43

You pull your pot out of the fire while it is still glowing. On purpose. It goes straight into a can of newspaper and pine shavings that bursts into flame, the lid slams down, and the fire pulls oxygen right out of your glaze. That is where the copper, the oil-slick shimmer and the crackle come from.

“If you love pottery, you have to experience raku. At least once.”

Dan

How it works here. Raku is a separate paid workshop, not part of membership, for current and past members. Spots are limited, and the dates and details live on the workshop page.

Come prepared. Pots arrive already bisqued and glazed with raku glazes; there is no time or place to do either at the workshop. The clay has to survive a brutal temperature shock, and B-Mix with Grog is our go-to. Raku glazes wear gold stickers and never go in a regular firing.

On the day. A fresh raku waiver, every time. An in-person safety meeting opens every workshop, and attendance for all of it is required: show up late and you do not fire. Closed-toe shoes, long pants, natural fibers, hair tied back. We supply the goggles, welding apron and gloves.

Before you go. The online raku training is comprehensive, and worth the fifteen minutes.

Who can come. Eighteen and up, or fourteen to seventeen with a parent or guardian taking part the whole time.

The short version
  • Raku pieces are for display. Never food safe, never watertight, completely worth it.

Sign the wall. Then make something.

Page 44

Most members sign the wall on their first-night tour, before they have made a single thing. We hand over a marker and point at the wall. Sign it big, small, fancy or barely legible. Add a doodle.

A member adding her name to the signature wall at The Clay Hole

“I spent my teenage years forging proof that I mattered to people. I plan to spend the rest of my life collecting proof that people mattered to me.”

Dan Pearce

How it started. As a kid, nobody signed Dan’s backpack or his yearbook, so he forged the signatures himself. As an adult he started collecting real ones: notebooks, laptops, clothes, then a chair. They are running out of chair.

The rule. In his first little garage studio, he built a tile wall behind the kiln with one rule. You did not get to sign it because you stopped in, or because you asked nicely. You signed it because you made art together.

The big wall. When the first Clay Hole opened, Dan signed its big wall first: one name on a great big blank wall. Now there are hundreds.

Forever. No signature ever comes down. Not one.

The short version
  • Most people sign on their first-night tour.
  • No name ever comes down.

Class photos and show & tell

Page 45

Real people, real pottery, nothing styled. Instructors snap photos mid-class, and members send plenty of their own.

How show & tell works. When a piece comes out of the kiln looking beautiful or exceptional, it gets an “Incredible!” card. That card is an invitation to get a picture taken with it.

You are in the picture. You hold your piece, and you are in the photo too. No hiding behind the pot. It is optional, so skip it if you would rather.

Ask the maker. See a glaze or a handle you love in the photos? Ask the maker how they did it. They have been hoping someone would.

Rather not be online? Text the studio with the photo’s file name and we will take it down.

The short version
  • Today you might recognize a face. Soon you will recognize a friend. Before long, you will spot yourself.

Bring your people

Page 46

Several times a year we hold Bring All Your Friends Free Week: a whole week where members can bring people who have never been here to make pottery next to them, free.

Free week rules. Brand-new people only, one free visit per person. Guests must be 18. No RSVP and no limit to how many you bring. Their waiver is done before they arrive. The night uses one of your classes, your tools become their tools, and clay is the one thing they buy, or you share yours. Nobody can bring anyone to their own first class.

You are the teacher. It will go sideways. That is the fun part. And if they do not join, their pot becomes yours to finish, glaze, fire and hand over.

Any other week. The Bring a Friend pass. Buy it online after at least one class on your own. Up to two guests at a time, one pass per guest ever, used in the month you buy it. Guests are 18 and up, or 14 to 17 with their own parent or guardian as the member bringing them. Workshops, parties and events are generally for members only. If a guest joins the same day, the pass fee comes back.

The short version
  • Nobody has ever regretted being the friend who dragged somebody somewhere good.

A little ritual never hurt

Page 47

Two small things that exist for no practical reason at all.

An offering

Icarus, God of Kilns

He has been watching potters since the first human put clay in fire, and he has seen handles detach, glazes crawl and bone-dry pieces explode out of pure spite. Before a firing, make him an offering online. Pick a blessing and an offering: tell him a secret, say something good about someone else, or admit something great about yourself. He makes no promises. But an offering has never once made things worse.

One a day

Your daily card

Every seat in class has an affirmation card waiting face down. Nobody picks their own. It finds you. Online and by email there are a hundred of them, one a day. The hundred and first only ever happens in person.

For the days the clay wins

Page 48

Two websites built entirely for frustration.

Nothing is saved

Scream It Into the Void

Some days life just be lifing. Type the thing you have been polite about, all caps encouraged, choose how to obliterate it, a meteor, a black hole, the sun, and hold the button. Nothing is saved, nothing is sent, and nobody reads it. Feels stupid. Works awesomely.

A different set every time

Destroy the glaze wall

The glaze wall is the most carefully guarded part of the studio. Online, you get to wreck it. Scroll past the Glaze Finder, press and hold a disaster, a gorilla, an alien, a cannon, and dozens we will not spoil, and watch.

The short version
  • If what you typed was bigger than a keyboard can fix, tell a person. It helps.
  • For account questions, a text beats the Void every time.

Help shape the place

Page 49

A studio that only ever hears the nice stuff slowly turns into a studio nobody wants to be in. So tell us things. And anyone who falls hard for pottery can help us teach it.

The suggestion box. It goes straight to the owner: suggestions, complaints, compliments and ideas, with a name on it or completely anonymous. It all gets read. Membership changes have their own pages, questions go to the FAQs or a text, and emergencies go to 911 first.

Something sensitive? A problem or a dispute is best handled one on one, with the general manager or the owner.

Teach here. Pink shirts are our paid main instructors. Purple shirts come through the trade program: one shift a week, at the wheels or the tables, in exchange for a Purple Level membership. No teaching background needed, but real dedication to clay is. It is the door most of our instructors came through.

The trick to getting hired. We keep standing lists, so apply before there is an opening. That is the whole trick.

The short version
  • Ideas and complaints: the suggestion box.
  • Sensitive: general manager or owner.
  • Want to teach? Apply before there is an opening.
Section 8 of 8

Paperwork

Pausing, canceling, your tracker, the glossary.

Pages 50 to 55 · 3 topics

Studio shelves lined with members' pots waiting to be fired

Take the break. Keep the shelf.

Page 50

Travel, a busy season, life being life. A pause holds your place without paying for classes you cannot use. Your shelf, the work on it, your unused classes and your rewards progress all wait.

How. Buy a pause on the pause page for the months you need. That is the whole to-do list: no portal, no canceling, no text to confirm. Pauses start at the beginning of the next month, and billing picks back up on its own at the same level.

Watch the deadline. The pause deadline falls on the same day of the month as the cancel deadline, but earlier in the day, so it is easy to miss. The pause page has both.

While you are paused. Finished work can still be picked up, pieces already dropped off still get fired, and paused members are welcome at workshops, parties and events. Classes are the only thing on hold. The rewards card freezes: paused months do not count for it or against it.

Limits. There is a yearly cap on paused months, a little lower at Black Level, because Black Level shelves are scarce. Coming back early? Text us.

The short version
  • A pause is not a softer goodbye. It is a hold button.

When something is not working

Page 51

Most people do not quit pottery. They quit the guilt. Before going, try one change.

Try this first. Wheel frustrating? Try another way to make. Room still feels new? Ask for an introduction. Stuck on a technique? Ask an instructor to watch the exact moment it goes wrong. Comparing yourself to the pot next door? The only fair comparison is the pot you made last month. Need a breather? Pause. Money tight? Ask about moving down a level, the Shared Shelf Pass or the Heroes Discount.

If it is time to go, thank you for being part of this. You cancel yourself, in the member portal, before the deadline on the cancel page. A text, an email or a chat with an instructor does not cancel anything, because we never cancel from our side. You keep the rest of the month you paid for.

What canceling costs. Unused classes are gone for good, even on a return. Rewards reset to zero. New-member deals are for first-time members only. There are no refunds, ever.

Clear your shelf by the end of your last class of the month. We clear every shelf on the first, and anything left behind is given away or tossed.

The short version
  • The door does not lock behind anyone. Walking back in after two months looks exactly like walking back in after two days.

Keep your own count

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Nobody scans anyone in, so the real count is the one you keep. The printable tracker does the math.

How it works. Write the month. Write a date in a space each time you use a class, instructed or open studio. At month’s end: Start plus Added minus Used equals Left. Then Left becomes next month’s Start.

Why sixteen spaces? No level adds that many in a month. The extra room is for the months you work through saved classes.

Print your own. The six-month sheet is free. One letter-size page, undated, so it never goes out of date. Print it at 100%, not fit to page, and print as many as you like.

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Words you will hear around here

If a word ever stumps you, ask any instructor. Nobody here thinks it is a silly question; whoever answers it once asked it too.

BatA removable board. A wheel bat clips onto the wheel so a pot can be lifted without touching it. Store work on plastic bats, never wooden ones.
BisqueClay after its first firing: hard, porous and ready for glaze. It dings when you tap it.
Bone dryUnfired clay that has lost all the water it can. Pale, chalky and as fragile as a cracker.
CenteringGetting a spinning lump of clay to run perfectly true on the wheel. The first skill, and the slowest to click.
Clay bodyA particular clay recipe, like 52 Buff or B-Mix.
CoilA rope of clay, and the method of building with them.
ConeA measure of heat and time together. Our bisque goes to cone 05; our glaze firing to what we call cone 5½. 05 is much cooler than 5. The zero matters.
CookieA thin disc of clay under every piece in the glaze firing, so drips glue the cookie instead of the kiln shelf.
CrawlingWhen glaze pulls back into islands as it melts, leaving bare patches.
CrazingA fine web of cracks in fired glaze. Lovely on a vase, not okay on anything for food.
Dipping glazeGlaze in a big bucket that a piece is dunked into. It has its own certification.
DrapeLaying a slab over or into a form so it takes the shape.
Flux glazeA glaze that makes other glazes melt and move. Buy-your-own, and some need a glaze catcher when they are on the outside.
FootThe bottom a pot stands on. Always bare of glaze.
GlazeA coating that melts into glass in the kiln.
Glaze catcherA dish a runny piece sits in during the firing, so drips land there instead of on the kiln shelf.
GreenwareAny unfired pottery, wet or dry.
GrogBits of already-fired clay mixed into a clay body. It adds tooth and makes the clay more forgiving.
KilnThe furnace that fires pottery. Staff-only, always.
Kiln ticketThe slip that travels with a piece: name, date, clay, every glaze and the order number.
Leather hardFirm enough to hold its shape, damp enough to carve. Feels like cold cheddar.
LinerA plain, dependable glaze for the inside of anything you will eat or drink from.
Maker’s markYour signature or symbol, scratched into the bottom.
Mold RoomWhere the slab molds live, each on its own numbered spot. Look it up in The Book of Molds first.
OpeningPressing down into centered clay on the wheel to make the floor.
PinchShaping clay by squeezing it between thumb and fingers.
PullingRaising a pot’s wall on the wheel by squeezing the clay upward.
RibA flat scraper for smoothing and shaping.
ScoreTo scratch crosshatches into two surfaces before joining them.
SgraffitoScratching through underglaze to draw with the clay beneath.
SlabA flat sheet of clay.
SlipHere it means one thing: clay mixed with water to the thickness of heavy cream, used as glue for joins.
SlurryThe wet clay mush that builds up while you throw. A little helps your hands glide; a lot is your pot dissolving.
StonewareClay fired hot enough to turn dense and durable. What finished pieces become.
ThrowingMaking pots on the wheel. The word comes from an Old English word for twisting or turning, so nothing actually gets thrown. Usually.
TrimmingCarving extra clay off a leather-hard pot, usually to make a neat foot.
UnderglazeColor that stays exactly where you put it, for painting and drawing.
Wash PitThe sink area. The clay sinks only take settled water from the top of your bucket, and clay never goes down a drain or into a sink.
Wax resistWax painted on to keep glaze off an area, usually the bottom.
WedgingKneading clay to push out air and even it out. The least glamorous four minutes in pottery, and the most useful.
Wheel headThe flat spinning disc on top of the wheel.
Still stuck?

Come for the pottery. Stay for the people.

That line is on the back cover, and it is the honest summary of the whole book. Everything else in here is just the details that make the room work.

  • Quick question? Start with the FAQs page, then the chat bubble on this site, which is trained on the whole studio.
  • Need a person? Text the studio. A real person reads every message.
  • In class? Ask a pink shirt. Emergency? Call 911 first, then tell us.

Booklet version 2026.09.23. Details change; the links above always carry the current ones.

A whole class of Clay Hole members standing together holding the pottery they made