Forest Satin

MBG080

🟩 Green Level

Forest Satin is a satin brush-on glaze from Coyote's Satin line, fired cone 5 to cone 6.

SatinOpaqueCone 5/6
Available at The Clay HoleYes
Test tile
Fired pot
Satin family
Find it on the glazes shelves Shelf 2, Row 3Tile #6 on the Satin pot
Show me where

The quick version of Forest Satin

TypeBrush-on glaze
FinishSatin
OpacityOpaque
Shows textureNot especially
Glaze fire toCone 5/6
Bisque toCone 04

What this glaze does

A solid, unbreaking green. Forest Satin looks great on its own, or under other, runnier colors.

Coyote describe the whole Satin line as a soft, opaque surface that feels smooth to the touch.

Clays that suit Forest Satin

These are opaque and unbreaking, so the clay under them matters less here than almost anywhere else in the Bible.

Any body worksEverything from #16 Porcelain to Berlin Gray will carry these, and the color stays close to the jar.
Light bodies#16 Porcelain, B-Mix and Half & Half read closest to Coyote's own tiles.
On textureA satin will not draw your carving the way a shino does. If you carved the pot for the glaze to find, use a breaking glaze instead and keep the satin for the form.
Worth knowingCoyote say crystals can form in the liquid glaze if it is stored below 65F.
Blocks of clay in the studio at The Clay Hole The complete guide to clay bodies What each body is made of and how it behaves under a glaze. The clay bodies we stock at The Clay Hole The clays we carry Every body on our shelf, with bag sizes and prices.

Applying this glaze to your work

A satin is an even coat glaze. Coyote describe the surface as soft and opaque, smooth to the touch, and most of this line does not break or run, so what you brush is close to what you get.

That cuts both ways: there is no reactive movement to hide a thin patch, so take the time to get the coat even.

Across the Satin line

Cone 5 to cone 6 over bisque.

Because nothing here is trying to move, an even coat is the whole job. A satin has no reactive break to disguise a thin patch, so slow down and get the coverage right.

Layering

Coyote built most of this line to sit still, which is exactly what makes it a good base. Several of these are recommended under a runnier glaze, where the satin holds its color and the glaze on top does the moving.

Before you commit a pot

This is the base layer of the Coyote shelf, and they name specific pairings themselves.

Cerulean is recommended under Bronze Temmoku or Archie's Base. Baby Blue is recommended with more mobile glazes like the Archie's series. Forest is recommended under runnier colors. Coyote call Gun Metal Green over Lapis one of the most popular combinations they sell, making something unlike either color on its own.

From The Clay Hole University

More info about Forest Satin below, but first... Everything we teach about glazing, written down and taught properly. These are the glaze lessons, and they are a small corner of a library that runs from centering your first pot to selling your work.

Glaze Brushing Techniques, Coat by Coat GuideGlaze Brushing Techniques, Coat by Coat Glazing Big and Intricate Pottery Faster GuideGlazing Big and Intricate Pottery Faster Getting the Most Out of the Mega Glaze Tool GuideGetting the Most Out of the Mega Glaze Tool Making, Logging and Dialing in Test Tiles GuideMaking, Logging and Dialing in Test Tiles Glaze Problems, Causes and Fixes GuideGlaze Problems, Causes and Fixes Glazing on the Wheel for Even Coats and Clean Bands GuideGlazing on the Wheel for Even Coats and Clean Bands Bubble Glaze with Dish Soap GuideBubble Glaze with Dish Soap Mixing Your Own Glazes: What It Actually Involves GuideMixing Your Own Glazes: What It Actually Involves Making a Glaze Catcher GuideMaking a Glaze Catcher Oxide and Carbonate Washes GuideOxide and Carbonate Washes When to Use Celadon Glazes GuideWhen to Use Celadon Glazes How to Use Dipping Glazes GuideHow to Use Dipping Glazes How to Use Underglaze: Techniques, Rules and Firing UnderglazeHow to Use Underglaze: Techniques, Rules and Firing Mishima: How to Inlay Slip and Underglaze into Carved Lines UnderglazeMishima: How to Inlay Slip and Underglaze into Carved Lines Wipe-Away Texture: Underglaze and Oxide Washes on Bisque UnderglazeWipe-Away Texture: Underglaze and Oxide Washes on Bisque
Browse all 170+ lessons and guides

Firing Forest Satin

Coyote fire these between witness cone 5 and witness cone 6, which is where our glaze kilns run.

If you are a member here

None of this is yours to manage. We handle everything on the kiln side, and every glaze on our shelves can be fired safely in our studio.

Common problems with Forest Satin

Why does my coat look patchy?

A satin has no reactive movement to disguise a thin spot, so an even coat matters more here than on a breaking glaze.

Why is there no variation?

That is the line working. Coyote built most of these not to break or run.

Why did my jar look crystallised?

Coyote say crystals can form in the liquid glaze if it is stored below 65F.

Food and function

Coyote have their recipes reviewed by an independent toxicologist and none of them use lead. They ask that you test your own finished ware for food safety, since the clay body and firing both affect the result.

Across the Satin line

Coyote have their recipes reviewed by an independent toxicologist and none of them use lead.

They ask that you test your own finished ware for food safety, because the clay body and firing both change the result. Coyote single out Alabaster as a liner glaze for functional work.

Test tile pots lined up on the glaze shelves at The Clay Hole

Our test tile pots

Every glaze family on our shelves has its own test tile pot, and it is the fastest way to decide what to put on a piece. It is a fired pot wearing the whole family, one numbered tile per glaze, on a surface built to show you what that glaze actually does rather than just what color it is.

  1. 1Find the pot The brand and family name are written on the rim. This glaze lives on the Coyote Satin pot.
  2. 2Find the tile This one is tile #6. The numbers match the ones in the Glaze Bible.
  3. 3Read it properly Look at what the glaze does across all four textures, not just what color it is.

What to look at on the tile

Broad vertical textureA broad open surface. Shows the color at full strength, and whether the glaze travels down it.
Shallow textureA shallow swirl stamp. Shows whether light carving still reads once the glaze is on, or fills in and vanishes.
Deep textureCut lines. A deeply rough texture stripe. Shows where the glaze pools, how it breaks, and how dark it goes in the recesses.
Wipe-away textureGlaze wiped back to bare clay. Shows what the edge does where the coat runs thin. Find this wiped away on the tile's number.
One trick worth knowing

Some glazes tell you loudly that they run. Others hide it. Look at how the brushed lines fired: crisp edges mean a stable glaze, and edges that went soft and fluid mean it moved, and it will move on your pot too.

About the Coyote Satin Family

Coyote's Satin line is the quiet one. Soft, opaque colors with a low sheen, and almost none of them break or run.

That is the opposite of what the Shinos next to them do, and it is deliberate. Coyote sell these partly as colors in their own right and partly as a still, reliable base for the glazes that do move.

Twelve colors, fired between witness cone 5 and witness cone 6. Coyote describe the surface as soft and opaque, smooth to the touch, and say the line does not break or run. The color you brush is close to the color you get.

All Satin glazesAll Coyote glazes
Satin family

More ways to pick a glaze

The Mega Glaze Tool Every glaze we carry, filtered by level, color, sheen and more. The Glaze Finder Type a name and see exactly where it sits on our wall. Clay Hole University Glazing lessons, from brushing to dipping to layering. Download the Glaze Bible PDF The whole printed Bible, in one file.

Membership levels that may use this glaze: Green, Yellow, Purple & Black

Not sure whether this glaze suits what you are making, or how it works with our system here? Ask an instructor. That is what we are here for, and a two minute conversation at the shelf beats a fired pot you did not want.

How membership levels work Back to the Glaze Bible
About these images and what your pot will actually look like

We have done our best to represent every glaze here accurately, and you should still expect your pot to look different from what is on this screen.

Our glaze tile images are digitally created. They are built to show the character of a glaze, not to be a color match.

A screen is not a printout, a printout is not a test tile, and a test tile is not a finished pot. Each step in that chain shifts what a glaze looks like, sometimes a lot.

On top of that, the pottery itself changes the result: the clay body, how thick the glaze went on, whether it was brushed, dipped or sprayed, what was layered under or over it, where the piece sat in the kiln, how hot that spot ran, how fast it cooled, what was fired next to it, and how much texture the surface had. Two pots glazed from the same jar on the same day can come out different.

Treat every image here as a starting point, and treat a test tile fired on your own clay as the real answer.

Download the Glaze Bible PDF