Dipping Glazes
7 glazes / The Clay Hole
Seven buckets we mix ourselves. They are the only glazes in the Bible that do not come from a manufacturer, and the only ones you dip rather than brush.
That is why they are not on the glaze shelves. They live in buckets, and a piece goes in and comes out in seconds.
Search results
Results
Dipping Glazes by the numbers
Every Dipping Glazes glaze we have in house
Hover any tile to see a pot fired in it, or tap once on a phone.
Jump straight to one
Nothing by that name.
7 to choose from
How the Dipping Glazes line works
The dip time is the recipe. One second on Bronzealot and Sunny Charcoal, three on most of the rest, four on Tamjoda.
There is no undo on a bucket. A second too long is a coat too thick, and thick is how a dipping glaze ends up on the kiln shelf instead of the pot.
Coats
One dip, for the number of seconds on that glaze's page. Not two dips, and not a top up.
Layering
These are a finish rather than a base. Brush-on glazes over a dipped pot is not something to try without asking a staff member first.
Food and safety
Mixed here and fired here on one schedule, which is the only way we can say anything about them with confidence. Ask a staff member before using one on anything unusual.
Clays that suit Dipping Glazes
Dipped over cone 04 bisque. Every one of our clay bodies works.
Common questions about Dipping Glazes
Why are these in buckets?
Because they are dipped, not brushed. That is what they were mixed for.
How long do I dip?
It depends on the glaze. One to four seconds, and each page says which.
Can I dip twice?
No. One dip. A second one puts the coat somewhere these were never tested.
Who makes them?
We do.
Which level are they?
Purple Level, except Dan's Secret Sauce, which is Black Level.
Are they on the glaze shelves?
No, and they never will be. They are buckets.
From The Clay Hole University
More info about Dipping Glazes below, but first... Everything we teach about glazing, written down and taught properly. These are the glaze lessons, and they are a small corner of a library that runs from centering your first pot to selling your work.
GuideHow to Use Dipping Glazes
GuideGlaze Brushing Techniques, Coat by Coat
GuideGlazing Big and Intricate Pottery Faster
GuideGetting the Most Out of the Mega Glaze Tool
GuideMaking, Logging and Dialing in Test Tiles
GuideGlaze Problems, Causes and Fixes
GuideGlazing on the Wheel for Even Coats and Clean Bands
GuideBubble Glaze with Dish Soap
GuideMixing Your Own Glazes: What It Actually Involves
GuideMaking a Glaze Catcher
GuideOxide and Carbonate Washes
GuideWhen to Use Celadon Glazes
UnderglazeHow to Use Underglaze: Techniques, Rules and Firing
UnderglazeMishima: How to Inlay Slip and Underglaze into Carved Lines
UnderglazeWipe-Away Texture: Underglaze and Oxide Washes on Bisque
The Dipping Glazes test tile pot
This family does not have a test tile pot. The colors and results come out close enough to what the book shows that a pot would not tell you much more, so work from the printed Glaze Bible and the tile above.
About these images and what your pot will actually look like
We have done our best to represent every glaze here accurately, and you should still expect your pot to look different from what is on this screen.
Our glaze tile images are digitally created. They are built to show the character of a glaze, not to be a color match.
A screen is not a printout, a printout is not a test tile, and a test tile is not a finished pot. Each step in that chain shifts what a glaze looks like, sometimes a lot.
On top of that, the pottery itself changes the result: the clay body, how thick the glaze went on, whether it was brushed, dipped or sprayed, what was layered under or over it, where the piece sat in the kiln, how hot that spot ran, how fast it cooled, what was fired next to it, and how much texture the surface had. Two pots glazed from the same jar on the same day can come out different.
Treat every image here as a starting point, and treat a test tile fired on your own clay as the real answer.


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