Texas Two-Step
12 glazes / Coyote
Twelve glazes that are really one system. Six undercoats, six overcoats, and thirty six combinations between them.
Oil spot is normally a cone 10 trick. Coyote built this line to get the same effect at cone 5 and 6 in an ordinary electric kiln, by having the top glaze pull away as it melts and letting the one underneath break through in spots.
Cone 5/6Bisque to Cone 04
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Texas Two-Step by the numbers
12glazes on our shelves
5at Yellow Level
6at Purple Level
1at Black Level
Friendly studio tip for this glaze family
Nobody picks these one at a time. Pick two.
Two coats of undercoat, three of overcoat. That is Coyote's number and it is the one to start from, then break it on purpose: thicker glaze makes bigger, wilder spots and thinner makes small tight ones.
The picker further down shows every pairing we stock. What it cannot show you is thickness, and that part is yours.
Learn more about how it worksEvery Texas Two-Step glaze we have in house
These twelve are the ingredients. Six go on first, six go over the top, and what they do together is further down the page.
Jump to one
Nothing by that name.
12 to choose from
Try a combination
One from each row. Every pairing here is a fired tile, not a swatch, and there are thirty six of them. Build one, then add another beside it and compare.
Based on the two you last chose
Undercoats run down the side Overcoats run across the top
Tap any tile to load it into the tray above. These are photographed small on purpose, because the originals do not hold up when they are blown up.
How the Texas Two-Step line works
Two glazes, one over the other, and the kiln does the rest. Three moves, then the detail that decides how it turns out.
1
Undercoat on bisque. Two or three brushed coats, or one dipped. Let it dry completely.
2
Overcoat on top. Two or three coats, over all of it or only part of it.
3
Fire and stand back. The top glaze pulls away as it melts and the one underneath breaks through in spots.
You need one of each. An undercoat on its own fires as a solid glossy color, and so does an overcoat. The spots only happen where one sits on top of the other.
Coats
Undercoat first, on cone 04 bisque. Two or three brushed coats, or one dipped, dried all the way through before anything else touches it. Then the overcoat.
Thickness is the dial here, and no photograph can show it. Coyote say the thicker the glaze goes on, the larger the spots get, and less regular with every extra coat. Their optimum is two coats under and three over, and they say plainly that you should experiment from there.
Layering
Cover all of the undercoat or only part of it. A partial overcoat gives you a hard edge between solid color and oil spot on the same pot, which is worth doing on purpose.
It is not sealed off from the rest of the shelf either. The same pull-away effect turns up over plenty of glazes outside this family, so if a combination is calling to you, put it on a tile and find out.
Food and safety
Coyote have the Texas Two Step glazes independently certified non toxic and dinnerware safe. Test your own finished work if you sell it.
Clays that suit Texas Two-Step
Applied over cone 04 bisque. Any of our clay bodies works, and the undercoat covers the body well enough that what is underneath matters less than the thickness of what you brush.
From The Clay Hole University
More info about Texas Two-Step below, but first... Everything we teach about glazing, written down and taught properly. These are the glaze lessons, and they are a small corner of a library that runs from centering your first pot to selling your work.
GuideGlaze Brushing Techniques, Coat by Coat
GuideGlazing Big and Intricate Pottery Faster
GuideGetting the Most Out of the Mega Glaze Tool
GuideMaking, Logging and Dialing in Test Tiles
GuideGlaze Problems, Causes and Fixes
GuideGlazing on the Wheel for Even Coats and Clean Bands
GuideBubble Glaze with Dish Soap
GuideMixing Your Own Glazes: What It Actually Involves
GuideMaking a Glaze Catcher
GuideOxide and Carbonate Washes
GuideWhen to Use Celadon Glazes
GuideHow to Use Dipping Glazes
UnderglazeHow to Use Underglaze: Techniques, Rules and Firing
UnderglazeMishima: How to Inlay Slip and Underglaze into Carved Lines
UnderglazeWipe-Away Texture: Underglaze and Oxide Washes on Bisque
The Texas Two-Step test tile pot
Every glaze family on our shelves has its own test tile pot, and it is the fastest way to decide what to put on a piece. It is a fired pot wearing the whole family, one numbered tile per glaze, on a surface built to show you what that glaze actually does rather than just what color it is.
Look for Coyote Texas Two-Step written on the rim. Each glaze on this page carries its tile number, and the numbers run around the pot.
One trick worth knowing
Some glazes tell you loudly that they run. Others hide it. Look at how the brushed lines fired: crisp edges mean a stable glaze, and edges that went soft and fluid mean it moved, and it will move on your pot too.
About these images and what your pot will actually look like
We have done our best to represent every glaze here accurately, and you should still expect your pot to look different from what is on this screen.
Our glaze tile images are digitally created. They are built to show the character of a glaze, not to be a color match.
A screen is not a printout, a printout is not a test tile, and a test tile is not a finished pot. Each step in that chain shifts what a glaze looks like, sometimes a lot.
On top of that, the pottery itself changes the result: the clay body, how thick the glaze went on, whether it was brushed, dipped or sprayed, what was layered under or over it, where the piece sat in the kiln, how hot that spot ran, how fast it cooled, what was fired next to it, and how much texture the surface had. Two pots glazed from the same jar on the same day can come out different.
Treat every image here as a starting point, and treat a test tile fired on your own clay as the real answer.