Enduro-Color
3 glazes / Coyote
Three glazes built for the inside of a mug rather than the outside.
Coyote designed the Enduro-Colors for durability, and list them as resisting fork and knife marking, dishwashers, tomato stains, acid, chipping, crazing, scratching and staining.
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Enduro-Color by the numbers
Friendly studio tip for this glaze family
This is the shelf for the inside of a mug.
Coyote built the Enduro-Colors for durability rather than drama: they list them as resisting fork and knife marks, dishwashers, tomato stains, acid, chipping, crazing, scratching and staining. That is a long list and it is the whole reason the line exists.
Two of the three are white liners. Use one inside, and put whatever you actually want to look at on the outside.
How the Enduro-Color line works
Three glazes, fired between witness cone 5 and witness cone 6.
Two are white liners and one is a color. This is the line to reach for when a piece is going to be used hard and washed often.
Coats
An even coat, the same as any liner glaze. There is no reactive movement here to hide a thin patch.
Two of the three are white liners, meant for the inside of a piece where the outside carries the color.
Layering
The white liners are designed for the inside of a piece while something else carries the outside. Coyote note the Gloss White Liner is gentle enough to let underglaze show through.
Food and safety
This is the line Coyote built for functional ware. They list it as standing up to fork and knife marking, dishwashers and tomato stains, and resisting acid, chipping, crazing, scratching and staining.
They still ask that you test your own finished ware, and that holds here too.
Clays that suit Enduro-Color
Liner glazes live or die on fit, and Coyote built this line around that.
From The Clay Hole University
More info about Enduro-Color below, but first... Everything we teach about glazing, written down and taught properly. These are the glaze lessons, and they are a small corner of a library that runs from centering your first pot to selling your work.
GuideGlaze Brushing Techniques, Coat by Coat
GuideGlazing Big and Intricate Pottery Faster
GuideGetting the Most Out of the Mega Glaze Tool
GuideMaking, Logging and Dialing in Test Tiles
GuideGlaze Problems, Causes and Fixes
GuideGlazing on the Wheel for Even Coats and Clean Bands
GuideBubble Glaze with Dish Soap
GuideMixing Your Own Glazes: What It Actually Involves
GuideMaking a Glaze Catcher
GuideOxide and Carbonate Washes
GuideWhen to Use Celadon Glazes
GuideHow to Use Dipping Glazes
UnderglazeHow to Use Underglaze: Techniques, Rules and Firing
UnderglazeMishima: How to Inlay Slip and Underglaze into Carved Lines
UnderglazeWipe-Away Texture: Underglaze and Oxide Washes on Bisque
The Enduro-Color test tile pot
Every glaze family on our shelves has its own test tile pot, and it is the fastest way to decide what to put on a piece. It is a fired pot wearing the whole family, one numbered tile per glaze, on a surface built to show you what that glaze actually does rather than just what color it is.
Look for Coyote Enduro-Color written on the rim. Each glaze on this page carries its tile number, and the numbers run around the pot.
Some glazes tell you loudly that they run. Others hide it. Look at how the brushed lines fired: crisp edges mean a stable glaze, and edges that went soft and fluid mean it moved, and it will move on your pot too.
About these images and what your pot will actually look like
We have done our best to represent every glaze here accurately, and you should still expect your pot to look different from what is on this screen.
Our glaze tile images are digitally created. They are built to show the character of a glaze, not to be a color match.
A screen is not a printout, a printout is not a test tile, and a test tile is not a finished pot. Each step in that chain shifts what a glaze looks like, sometimes a lot.
On top of that, the pottery itself changes the result: the clay body, how thick the glaze went on, whether it was brushed, dipped or sprayed, what was layered under or over it, where the piece sat in the kiln, how hot that spot ran, how fast it cooled, what was fired next to it, and how much texture the surface had. Two pots glazed from the same jar on the same day can come out different.
Treat every image here as a starting point, and treat a test tile fired on your own clay as the real answer.











