The Clay Hole University · Project Guides
Throwing a TaginePrintable pottery guide
The whole tagine, in the order you make it: what the cone is really doing, the seat and the caliper number that decide the fit, the base, the cone thrown upside down and the knob, and the drying, glazing and kitchen rules that decide whether it lasts.
- Skill level: Advanced
- 30 printable pages
- 9 video picks
- 6-question quiz + answer key
- Instant download
- Prints on any printer
- The lesson stays free
What is the Throwing a Tagine printable guide?
It is the tagine on paper: why the lid is a cone and not a dome, starting weights and sizes for a small, standard and large pot, a stepped seat and the caliper number everything else is aimed at, the cone thrown upside down, the knob and its vent hole, the fit checked at three stages, drying the two pots as one, glazing and firing without fusing them, and what the finished pot can and cannot do in a kitchen. Built to be printed, ticked off and kept beside the wheel.
Prefer to read it online first? The “Throwing a Tagine” lesson is free, and always will be.
- 30printable pages, US Letter
- 6quiz questions, with a full answer key
- 9hand-picked videos, each with a QR code
- 20glossary terms in plain language
- 2workbook pages you fill in yourself
A tagine is not hard to throw. It is hard to make fit
Most people who can throw a wide bowl and a steep one can throw the two halves of a tagine. The trouble is that the halves have to agree with each other, and they only get to agree after both have dried, been fired and shrunk. A lid that dropped in beautifully on a Tuesday can be a hair too small on the shelf a month later, and a hair too small cannot be fixed.
Almost none of that is skill. It is a caliper reading taken at the right moment, a rim thrown a little wide on purpose, one strip of plastic over both pots, and a fit checked wet, at leather hard and again after bisque, while there is still something you can do about it. None of it is difficult once it is written down in the order it happens.
Then there is the part after the kiln. A stoneware tagine is ovenware, not flameware, and how it is heated decides whether it lasts for years or cracks the first time it is used properly. The guide gives that its own section, because it is the part most people skip.
Real pages, for a bench with wet hands
These are actual pages from the guide, shown here with the sample watermark.

Before you beginSix boxes on one page: what you will learn, what to have on the bench, what is worth knowing, the common pitfalls, what success looks like and how to practice. Read it before you throw and again before you glaze. 
The numbers to start fromClay weights, seat widths and cone heights for a small, standard and large pot, and the ratios worth memorizing. They are starting points, not laws, and the practice log has room for your own. 
Fit, checked in stagesWet with calipers, by hand at leather hard, and again after bisque. A lid is only ever right at a stage where you can still change it, so this is the page to have open when you sit it in its seat. 
Every tagine, and how it fittedA log to write in: the seat you measured, the lid rim you threw to it, and how the lid sat at leather hard and after bisque. The second tagine starts from a number instead of a memory.
The number you must not lose
A tagine takes weeks and hangs on a handful of measurements. Paper is good at both.
It holds still
A page stays exactly where you left it while you steady a wide rim with two fingers. It does not go dark, and it does not need clay wiped off the screen.
A number with a home
The seat measurement is the number the whole lid is aimed at. The guide has a page for writing it down next to how the lid sat at each stage, so it is on paper and not in your head.
Weeks in the middle
Two pots drying together, a bisque, a glaze. The drying rules are a short list to pin above the shelf, not a video to find again when you have forgotten the plastic.
Beside the oven too
The cold oven, the low heat and the trivet are on one page, so the rules that keep the finished pot whole can be read out to whoever else cooks in your kitchen.
Rebuilt for paper, not printed from a web page
Every guide in the series is set from scratch for print. Here is what that meant for this one.
The numbers, checked
We worked the clay weights back from volume and the firing sum from the studio’s rates, and both hold up. The cone height, the seat width and the size table agree with each other everywhere they appear.
Every video, read
We read the description of all nine videos against the note beside each one. One note said a jar video used the same hand position as the tagine’s seat. Our own lessons say that video teaches a different move, and the guide now says so.
The knob, put right
The lesson blamed trapped air for a knob blowing off in the bisque. It is water turning to steam, so the guide says that in all four places, and keeps the vent hole.
Four rules, put back
The glazing list now says a kiln cookie or glaze catcher goes under every piece, that the glaze inside has to be one rated for food, that a fired lid is taken down wet, and that staff load the kilns.
A quiz that explains itself
Six questions, and an answer key that gives the reason behind every answer rather than only the letter.
Codes that keep working
Every link is a short Clay Hole address. If a video moves, we repoint the address and your printed copy still goes to the right place.
The lesson is free. It always will be.
All of the teaching in this guide comes from the free “Throwing a Tagine” lesson, and that lesson is not going anywhere.
There is a small sound you learn to listen for. You lift the lid an inch, let go, and it drops into the seat with a soft tap of clay on clay.
Everything in this guide is there to earn that tap.
Then put a stew in it, and let it do what tagines have done for a very long time.
Dan Pearce, founder of The Clay Hole
Build a little pottery library
Every printable guide in The Clay Hole University series takes one free lesson and rebuilds it for paper, with workbook pages, a glossary and a quiz with a worked answer key. Each one keeps its number for good, so a guide you buy today is the same guide in the same place next year.
Put any five printable guides in your cart and the cheapest one is on us. Put in nine and the two cheapest are on us. It happens automatically at checkout, no code to remember.
- 5guides in your cart1 on us
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Three lessons that pick up where this one leaves off
Each one is free to read online, and the codes in the guide take you straight there.
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Guide 08.16 · free lessonLidded Jars with a GalleryDo this one first. It is the same seat, cut on a jar and lid at a size where a mistake costs a pound of clay, with a plan for the ten days between the wheel and the kiln. It fires with its lid on, and a tagine does not, so read the two side by side.
Read the free lesson -
Guide 06.09 · free lessonThrowing Lids That FitThis guide has one lid and one seat. That one has every family of lid, the caliper method in full and twelve ways a lid stops fitting, so it is where to go when your seat and your lid disagree and you cannot see why.
Read the free lesson -
Guide 05.09 · free lessonCollaring In to Narrow a NeckIf you try the right way up route for the cone, this is the move to learn first. A tall cone closed at the top is collaring at its hardest, and that guide lets you practice it on a form that forgives you.
Read the free lesson
Good to know
How is this different from the free lesson?
Do I need a wheel?
Is this too early for me?
Can I really cook in it?
What if my lid comes out too small?
Do I need a fancy printer?
Does it print in black and white?
Can I print just part of it?
Can I read it on a screen instead?
Do I have to be at a studio to use it?
How does delivery work?
What happens if the guide is updated?
Can I share it?
Throw the lid a hair wide, then check it at every stage
The pots take an afternoon and the fit takes weeks, and the guide is the rest of what stands between the two: the seat, the caliper number, the rim thrown wide, the plastic over both, the fit at leather hard and again after bisque, and the cold oven at the end. Do those and the lid drops in with a soft tap. Skip one and you find out at the kiln, when there is nothing left to do about it.
Get the guide · $10.00


