The Clay Hole University · Project Guides
Chip and Dip Platters That Do Not CrackPrintable pottery guide
The whole method for a wide platter with a bowl joined to it, in the order you do it, including the fortnight of drying that decides whether it survives. Both routes, the wheel and the slab, and the join that most of them fail at.
- Skill level: Intermediate
- 29 printable pages
- 9 video picks
- 6-question quiz + answer key
- Instant download
- Prints on any printer
- The lesson stays free
What is the Chip and Dip Platters That Do Not Crack printable guide?
It is the whole form on paper: what you are actually making, which of the three shapes to pick and what each one costs you later, how to throw a wide platter without the floor splitting, how to build the same thing from a slab, how to join the bowl so the seam holds through both firings, and the staged drying schedule that is the real difficulty. Then feet and trimming order, glazing and firing, a paper version of the page’s fit calculator, a diagnosis page, the full quiz with an answer key that explains every answer, a practice log and a glossary.
Prefer to read it online first? The “Chip and Dip Platters That Do Not Crack” lesson is free, and always will be.
- 29printable pages, US Letter
- 6quiz questions, with a full answer key
- 9hand-picked videos, each with a QR code
- 16glossary terms in plain language
- 2workbook pages you fill in yourself
Nobody loses one of these at the wheel
A chip and dip platter is two ordinary things stuck together. A wide shallow plate and a small bowl, neither of them difficult, and most people make both halves in one evening without any trouble at all.
Then it sits on a shelf for a fortnight. The rim is thin and open to the room, the seam under the bowl is the thickest clay on the whole piece, and they finish drying days apart. Whichever one gets there first has nothing left to give, so when the other one finally shrinks, it pulls against something that has stopped moving. That is the ring crack in the bisque, the platter that rocks on a table, the rim gone slightly oval, and the bowl that quietly lets go in the glaze firing.
Every one of those was decided on day two, while you were at home. This guide is mostly about day two.
Real pages, for a wet bench and a drying shelf
These are actual pages from the guide, shown here with the sample watermark.

What you are in for, before you startWhat the piece asks of you, what to have ready, the six things worth knowing before you touch clay, and the eight ways people lose one. Read this page and you already know where the difficulty is. 
The form, drawn and labelledA cross section with its numbered key beside it rather than on the page after, so the rim, the foot, the field, the join and the well are named while you are looking at them. Under it, the three shapes and what each one costs you to live with. 
Why it cracks, and when it was decidedThe mechanism in full, with the videos that show it being done. Clay shrinks only while water is leaving it, and the two halves of this piece finish days apart. 
Every platter, and how the fortnight wentYour room, your clay and your shelf are not in any book. Write down six platters, what you did and what came back, and the third one will not surprise you.
The important days are the ones with nothing to watch
Most of what decides a chip and dip platter happens with your hands full or with the piece under plastic on a shelf, and neither of those is a moment to be holding a phone.
It does not go dark
A join takes both hands, slip and a wooden tool, and it takes longer than a screen stays awake. The page is still open at step five when you get back to it.
It lives with the piece
The drying schedule runs for two weeks and you need it on days one, three and six. Tape it to the shelf and it is there on all three, which a browser tab never is.
You can write on it
The practice log has room for six platters. Clay, width, floor, joined or loose, days under plastic and how it came out. Two or three entries and you stop guessing at your own room.
Nothing loads
The videos are on the page as codes you scan when you want them, not embeds that have to fetch. In a studio with the wi-fi it has, that matters.
Rebuilt for paper, not printed from a web page
Every guide in the series is set from scratch for print. Here is what that meant for this one.
The mechanism first, then the routes
The cross section and its numbered key are on one page, side by side, so the words that name the parts are beside the drawing rather than on the sheet after it.
The calculator, worked through
The lesson has a box you type one size into. On paper it is a table of eight platters with the firing cost and the shelves each one fits on, which shows you two things the box will not tell you unless you go hunting: the widest round platter that fits any shelf in the building, and why a long oval fits all four.
Every number checked against the studio
Clay weights, floor and rim thicknesses, foot ring position, shelf sizes, firing prices and both cone numbers, read from our own fact sheet and our own pages rather than typed, and dated on the page so you can tell when they were true.
Checked against our other lessons
The floor thickness in this guide is set against the plates lesson, which measures platters the same way and publishes a table of them. Where the two disagreed, the lesson was corrected as well as the guide.
The join as a sequence
Eight steps in the order you do them, plus the one that has to happen before any of them, which is trimming the foot and signing the bottom while you still can.
A bench sheet and a diagnosis page
One page holds the join, the drying schedule and the numbers. Another works backwards from what came out of the kiln to what caused it and what to change.
The lesson is free. It always will be.
All of the teaching in this guide comes from the free “Chip and Dip Platters That Do Not Crack” lesson, and that lesson is not going anywhere. The printable is the same teaching, rebuilt for a bench.
Somebody brings me a platter with a hairline all the way round the bottom of the dip bowl and wants to know what went wrong in the firing. Nothing went wrong in the firing. The firing is just the first moment anybody could see it.
The ring crack, the platter that rocks, the rim gone slightly oval. Not one of those is a scoring problem and not one of them happened at the wheel. They happened on a shelf, on day two, while you were at home.
So the honest advice is boring. Bag it when you would rather not. Give it two weeks when you were hoping for two days. Nobody has ever ruined one of these by being too patient with it.
Dan Pearce, founder of The Clay Hole
Build a little pottery library
Every printable guide in The Clay Hole University series takes one free lesson and rebuilds it for paper: the teaching in the order you do it, the numbers checked against the studio and dated, the videos as codes you can scan, a quiz with an answer key that explains itself, a glossary, and somewhere to write down what actually happened.
Put any five printable guides in your cart and the cheapest one is on us. Put in nine and the two cheapest are on us. It happens automatically at checkout, no code to remember.
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Three lessons that pick up where this one leaves off
Each one is free to read online, and the codes in the guide take you straight there.
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Guide 06.11 · free lessonThrowing PlatesA platter is a big plate, and this is the lesson that measures them. Its table gives the finished width, the clay weight, the floor thickness and the foot ring diameter for everything from a saucer up to a sixteen inch platter, which is the page to have open beside this one.
Read the free lesson -
Guide 08.08 · free lessonHand-Built Footed Serving BowlsThe other large hand built serving form, and a shorter way into the same three problems: a wide floor, a foot that has to carry it, and a join that has to hold. A good one to make first.
Read the free lesson -
Guide 09.04 · free lessonAdding Feet and Foot Rings to Bowls and PlattersA wide flat floor almost never comes out of a kiln dead flat, and the foot is what makes it sit still anyway. This is where the rest of that lives, including how to trim a wide piece without pushing your tool through the middle of it.
Read the free lesson
Good to know
How is this different from the free lesson?
Do I need a wheel?
Is this for beginners?
What do I actually get?
Will it print on a normal printer?
Can I print it more than once?
Do the video codes expire?
Does it cover what a big piece costs to fire here?
I already made one and it cracked. Is this still useful?
Is there a version I can get for free?
Slow is the only technique on this page
Compress more than feels necessary. Join at matching hardness. Bag it longer than you want to. Let it have the shelf for a fortnight. Do those four and the wheel work is the easy part.
Get the guide · $10.00


