The Clay Hole University · Trimming, Handles and Drying
Adding Feet and Foot Rings to Bowls and PlattersPrintable pottery guide
The whole job, in the order you do it: whether to cut a foot out of the base or add one on, how wide, tall and thick the ring should be, how to hold a wide pot still, and what the kiln shelf does to it afterwards.
- Skill level: Intermediate
- 29 printable pages
- 9 video picks
- 8-question quiz + answer key
- Instant download
- Prints on any printer
- The lesson stays free
What is the Adding Feet and Foot Rings to Bowls and Platters printable guide?
It is the bottom of the pot on paper: how to tell whether to cut a ring out of the base or add one on, how to hold a wide pot still and true it, how to cut a foot ring and how to add a coil ring, step by step, a table of ring sizes for bowls, plates and platters, and what to do about each way it goes wrong. Built to be printed, worked through at the wheel and kept on the bench.
Prefer to read it online first? The “Adding Feet and Foot Rings to Bowls and Platters” lesson is free, and always will be.
- 29printable pages, US Letter
- 8quiz questions, with a full answer key
- 9hand-picked videos, each with a QR code
- 17glossary terms in plain language
- 2workbook pages you fill in yourself
The trouble at the bottom is made weeks before you see it
A wide flat bottom is the one part of a pot that nothing else can rescue. It rocks on the table, it drags on the kiln shelf, and it dries more slowly in the middle than at the rim. A foot is the fix, and there are only two ways to get one: cut it out of clay that is already there, or add it on afterwards.
One question decides which: how much clay is under the floor right now? The guide gives the answer in inches for a bowl, a plate and a platter, so you are not guessing with a loop tool in your hand. Then it sets out each side in the order you do it, including the part nobody warns you about, which is holding a fourteen inch piece of leather hard clay still.
It ends at the kiln, where the foot meets the shelf: wax, an undercut, and a cookie or a glaze catcher under every piece. There is a page to write down every foot you make and how it sat, and a page to keep by the wheel.
Real pages, from a bench with slip on it
These are actual pages from the guide, shown here with the sample watermark.

Before you beginOne page before you touch clay: what you will learn, what to have on the bench, what is worth knowing, the common pitfalls, and what a good foot looks like. 
The fork in the roadThe bowl sliced down the middle with its five numbered parts, and the one question that decides whether you cut a ring out or add one on. 
When it goes wrongThe start of the troubleshooting section: what caused each fault and what to do differently next time, starting with the added foot that cracked away from the base. 
Every foot, and how it satA log to write in: the width across the rim, the ring, its height, the floor you left, and whether the pot sat flat. A few rows in and the next foot starts from a number instead of a guess.
Sizes are not something you remember with clay on your hands
A foot is a handful of measurements and a few careful checks, made with a wet pot on the wheel. Paper suits that.
The sizes sit beside the steps
How wide the ring is, how tall it stands and how much floor is left are each next to the step that needs them, with a table from a small bowl to a large platter.
The fork is one question
Cut or add is decided by a single measurement. It is on the one page summary with the answer in inches, so you check it before the tool touches the clay.
A number to write down
The log has columns for the width, the ring height and the floor you left. The next foot on that shape starts from a measurement instead of a hunch.
One page for the wheel
The one page summary has whether to cut or add, the numbers, the checks before the first cut and what to look at when it goes wrong. It pins up beside the wheel.
Rebuilt for paper, not printed from a web page
Every guide in the series is set from scratch for print. Here is what that meant for this one.
A fork that adds up
The lesson said to cut a ring out of any base with more than a quarter inch of clay under it. The lesson’s own floor rule cannot allow that. The guide and the free lesson now give the measurement that does.
A ring size table
The free lesson has a sizer that runs in a browser. On paper it is a table for bowls, plates and platters, worked out from the same rules.
Video notes that say what the video shows
Notes in the free lesson described things the videos do not show. We checked each against the video’s own description, chapters and frames, and rewrote them in the guide and in the lesson.
Careful at the sanding table
A rocking foot is fixed by wet sanding, in safety glasses and an N95 or better. The guide says so everywhere it mentions sanding, and the free lesson now does too.
Codes that keep working
Every link is a short Clay Hole address. If a video moves, we repoint the address and your printed copy still goes to the right place.
A page to keep by the wheel
The one page summary is the whole job on a single sheet: whether to cut or add, the numbers, the checks before the first cut, and what to look at when it goes wrong.
The lesson is free. It always will be.
All of the teaching in this guide comes from the free “Adding Feet and Foot Rings to Bowls and Platters” lesson, and that lesson is not going anywhere.
If you have ever picked up a bowl you were proud of and found a crack across the middle, or set a platter down and felt it rock, the fault was almost certainly at the bottom, and it was made weeks before you noticed.
None of it is about talent. It is one question you ask before a tool touches the clay: is there enough here to cut a ring out of, or do I have to build one?
Read it once, watch a video or two, then keep the steps beside the wheel.
Dan Pearce, founder of The Clay Hole
Build a little pottery library
Every printable guide in The Clay Hole University series takes one free lesson and rebuilds it for paper, with workbook pages, a glossary and a quiz with a worked answer key. Each one keeps its number for good, so a guide you buy today is the same guide in the same place next year.
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Three lessons that pick up where this one leaves off
Each one is free to read online, and the codes in the guide take you straight there.
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Guide 09.01 · free lessonHow to Trim and Turn PotteryThe whole trimming job this one sits inside: tools, timing, the leather hard window and four kinds of bottom, from a plain flat one to a cut foot.
Read the free lesson -
Guide 08.08 · free lessonHand-Built Footed Serving BowlsThe hand built half of the fork from start to finish: three ways to build the bowl, five ways to build the foot, and the joins that survive the kiln.
Read the free lesson -
Guide 06.11 · free lessonThrowing PlatesWhere the plate numbers come from: how much clay, how thick to leave the floor, and a spec table for six sizes, ending in a wide foot.
Read the free lesson
Good to know
How is this different from the free lesson?
How do I know whether to cut a foot or add one?
Does it cover hand built pieces?
Do I need a wheel?
Is this too early for me?
What do I need besides clay?
Do I need a fancy printer?
Does it print in black and white?
Can I print just part of it?
Can I read it on a screen instead?
How does delivery work?
What happens if the guide is updated?
Can I share it?
Ask the one question first
Turn the piece over and ask how much clay is under the floor. Keep the footprint a quarter to three eighths of an inch wide, leave at least three sixteenths of floor, and put a cookie under the piece in the kiln. Those checks take a few minutes and decide whether the pot sits flat. The guide keeps them in front of you at the bench.
Get the guide · $5.00


