Desert Sage Shino
MBG061
Desert Sage Shino is a satin brush-on glaze from Coyote's Shinos line, fired cone 5 to cone 6.
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The quick version of Desert Sage Shino
What this glaze does
Varying from a sagebrush green to a dark reddish brown. Coyote call it one of the most popular glazes in the Shino line, and the natural green and brown tones sit well on most work.
Clays that suit Desert Sage Shino
A shino breaks where it thins, so the surface of the pot matters more here than the color of the clay.
Applying this glaze to your work
Coyote call the Shinos user friendly, and they are: easy to apply and not runny.
Thickness is the control. The color is sensitive to it, breaking brown where the glaze runs thin, which is why these look best over texture and along a rim.
Coyote fire these between witness cone 5 and witness cone 6, which is where our kilns run.
Thickness is the whole control. Thin breaks brown, thick holds the color. On a textured pot that happens by itself, which is why Coyote say the Shinos are at their best over texture.
Layering
Coyote built this line to go over things. The Shinos work over texture and over other glazes, and Coyote's own Gloss series is designed partly as a base for them.
Coyote designed this line to go over things, including their own glazes. Their Gloss series doubles as a base for the Shinos, and several of the sixteen have a specific partner Coyote name themselves.
Butterscotch produces a furred pattern over a Gloss glaze. Sunrise is recommended over black. Cedar is recommended with black, and Blue is recommended against a bright color like Buttercup.
From The Clay Hole University
More info about Desert Sage Shino below, but first... Everything we teach about glazing, written down and taught properly. These are the glaze lessons, and they are a small corner of a library that runs from centering your first pot to selling your work.
GuideGlaze Brushing Techniques, Coat by Coat
GuideGlazing Big and Intricate Pottery Faster
GuideGetting the Most Out of the Mega Glaze Tool
GuideMaking, Logging and Dialing in Test Tiles
GuideGlaze Problems, Causes and Fixes
GuideGlazing on the Wheel for Even Coats and Clean Bands
GuideBubble Glaze with Dish Soap
GuideMixing Your Own Glazes: What It Actually Involves
GuideMaking a Glaze Catcher
GuideOxide and Carbonate Washes
GuideWhen to Use Celadon Glazes
GuideHow to Use Dipping Glazes
UnderglazeHow to Use Underglaze: Techniques, Rules and Firing
UnderglazeMishima: How to Inlay Slip and Underglaze into Carved Lines
UnderglazeWipe-Away Texture: Underglaze and Oxide Washes on Bisque
Firing Desert Sage Shino
Coyote fire these between witness cone 5 and witness cone 6, which is where our glaze kilns run.
None of this is yours to manage. We handle everything on the kiln side, and every glaze on our shelves can be fired safely in our studio.
Common problems with Desert Sage Shino
Why is mine one flat color?
Nothing for it to break over. A shino needs texture, carving or a rim to show what it does.
Why is the brown so strong?
The coat went thin there. Breaking brown where thin is the effect, not a fault.
Why did my jar look crystallised?
Coyote say crystals can form in the liquid glaze if it is stored below 65F.
Food and function
Coyote have their recipes reviewed by an independent toxicologist and none of them use lead. They ask that you test your own finished ware for food safety, since the clay body and firing both affect the result.
Coyote have their recipes reviewed by an independent toxicologist and none of them use lead.
They ask that you test your own finished ware for food safety, because the clay body and the firing both change the result.
Our test tile pots
Every glaze family on our shelves has its own test tile pot, and it is the fastest way to decide what to put on a piece. It is a fired pot wearing the whole family, one numbered tile per glaze, on a surface built to show you what that glaze actually does rather than just what color it is.
- 1Find the pot The brand and family name are written on the rim. This glaze lives on the Coyote Shinos pot.
- 2Find the tile This one is tile #16. The numbers match the ones in the Glaze Bible.
- 3Read it properly Look at what the glaze does across all four textures, not just what color it is.
What to look at on the tile
Some glazes tell you loudly that they run. Others hide it. Look at how the brushed lines fired: crisp edges mean a stable glaze, and edges that went soft and fluid mean it moved, and it will move on your pot too.
About the Coyote Shinos Family
A shino breaks brown where it thins. That is the whole idea, and it means the glaze draws every carved line, every throwing ring and every edge on the pot.
Coyote have been selling the original of these since 2002, and they now run to sixteen colors on our shelf, all doing the same trick in different places on the color wheel.
Sixteen glazes, fired between witness cone 5 and witness cone 6. Coyote make these in Albuquerque to get gas-firing depth out of an electric kiln, and they are unusually easy to live with for a glaze that moves this much: easy to apply, and not runny. What changes the result is thickness, not luck.
More ways to pick a glaze
Membership levels that may use this glaze: Black
Not sure whether this glaze suits what you are making, or how it works with our system here? Ask an instructor. That is what we are here for, and a two minute conversation at the shelf beats a fired pot you did not want.
About these images and what your pot will actually look like
We have done our best to represent every glaze here accurately, and you should still expect your pot to look different from what is on this screen.
Our glaze tile images are digitally created. They are built to show the character of a glaze, not to be a color match.
A screen is not a printout, a printout is not a test tile, and a test tile is not a finished pot. Each step in that chain shifts what a glaze looks like, sometimes a lot.
On top of that, the pottery itself changes the result: the clay body, how thick the glaze went on, whether it was brushed, dipped or sprayed, what was layered under or over it, where the piece sat in the kiln, how hot that spot ran, how fast it cooled, what was fired next to it, and how much texture the surface had. Two pots glazed from the same jar on the same day can come out different.
Treat every image here as a starting point, and treat a test tile fired on your own clay as the real answer.





