The Clay Hole University · Trimming, Handles and Drying
Scoring and Slipping a JoinPrintable pottery guide
The whole join, in the order you make it: what a join really is, the nine moves, what to brush on and what does nothing, how to make slip from your own clay, and how to dry it so it is still shut when it comes out of the kiln.
- Skill level: Beginner
- 26 printable pages
- 7 video picks
- 8-question quiz + answer key
- Instant download
- Prints on any printer
- The lesson stays free
What is the Scoring and Slipping a Join printable guide?
It is scoring and slipping on paper: why a join is a weld and not glue, the six things every join needs, the nine moves in order, what to brush into a join and what does nothing, how to make joining slip from your own clay, four kinds of join and the quirk of each, where joins are really lost, and eight ways a join fails with what caused each. Built to be printed, kept at the table and marked up as you go.
Prefer to read it online first? The “Scoring and Slipping a Join” lesson is free, and always will be.
- 26printable pages, US Letter
- 8quiz questions, with a full answer key
- 7hand-picked videos, each with a QR code
- 16glossary terms in plain language
- 2workbook pages you fill in yourself
Most joins are decided long before the kiln
A handle comes off in the bisque and it feels like bad luck. It almost never is. The join was already failing on the drying shelf, and the firing only made it obvious.
Everything that decides it is small and easy to skip with wet hands: two pieces at the same wetness, scoring you can catch a fingernail in on both faces, slip from the same clay brushed down into the grooves, a bead squeezing out all the way around, and a seam blended until it is gone. Two of those, the slip and the blend, are the ones people skip most, because both look finished long before they are.
The guide puts the nine moves in the order you do them, with the numbers you need beside them: how deep to score, how thick the slip should be, how long to bag a piece. It ends with a page to log every join and how it came out.
Real pages, for a table with a bucket of slip on it
These are actual pages from the guide, shown here with the sample watermark.

Before you beginOne page before you touch clay: what you will learn, what to have on the table, what is worth knowing, the common pitfalls, and what a good join looks like. 
What is actually happeningThe diagram page: a join in three stages, pressed, prepared and welded, with a six point key that says what each part of the drawing is doing. 
When it goes wrongThe start of the eight ways a join fails, each with what caused it, and a video note on drying without cracks, so the next join starts from the cause rather than a guess. 
Join logA log to write in: how wet each piece was, what you did at the table, how it dried and how it came out. A few rows in, you can see which move to be fussier about.
Your hands are covered in slip
A join is made with both hands full of clay, and the moves come one after another. Paper suits that.
The moves are numbered
Nine moves, in order, each with its reason. You can look up move four with a wet thumb and find it in a second.
It holds still
A page stays where you put it while you press and blend. It does not lock its screen, and it does not mind slip.
A place to write the result
A join is only proven once the piece is out of the kiln, so the log has a column for how it came out. The joins that held and the ones that opened tell you what to change.
One card for the table
The join card has the moves, the numbers and what a break tells you on a single page. It pins up beside the table.
Rebuilt for paper, not printed from a web page
Every guide in the series is set from scratch for print. Here is what that meant for this one.
Video notes that say what the video shows
Seven notes in the free lesson described things the videos do not show. We checked each against the video’s own description, chapter list and frames, and rewrote them in the guide.
A repair claim that matches its label
The lesson said a mender repair could survive a glaze firing. The product’s own page says to ask a staff member before firing anything repaired with it, so the guide says that too.
Written for any studio
Where the free lesson says here or the studio, the guide says The Clay Hole, so a reader working somewhere else knows which line is a Clay Hole habit and which is a rule of the craft.
A quiz that explains itself
A short quiz, and an answer key that gives the reason behind every answer rather than only the letter.
Codes that keep working
Every link is a short Clay Hole address. If a video moves, we repoint the address and your printed copy still goes to the right place.
A card for the table
The join card is the whole job on one sheet: what to check before you join, what to do at the join, what to do after, and how to read a break.
The lesson is free. It always will be.
All of the teaching in this guide comes from the free “Scoring and Slipping a Join” lesson, and that lesson is not going anywhere.
A handle coming off in the kiln feels like bad luck. It almost never is.
It is a note from the clay about what happened at your table a few days earlier, and it is written on the two broken faces.
Practice on something you do not mind losing, and read every break you get.
Dan Pearce, founder of The Clay Hole
Build a little pottery library
Every printable guide in The Clay Hole University series takes one free lesson and rebuilds it for paper, with workbook pages, a glossary and a quiz with a worked answer key. Each one keeps its number for good, so a guide you buy today is the same guide in the same place next year.
Put any five printable guides in your cart and the cheapest one is on us. Put in nine and the two cheapest are on us. It happens automatically at checkout, no code to remember.
See every printable guide, or every printable we sell on one page.
- 5guides in your cart1 on us
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Three lessons that pick up where this one leaves off
Each one is free to read online, and the codes in the guide take you straight there.
-
Guide 09.06 · free lessonHow to Pull HandlesThe join this guide keeps coming back to. Five ways to make the handle itself, from pulled to slab and strap to lugs, and the attaching steps in the order they actually happen.
Read the free lesson -
Guide 07.02 · free lessonHow to Coil Build PotteryA wall made entirely of joins. It takes the blending from move seven and runs it up a whole pot, with how thick to roll the coils, how to start the base and the habits that stop the joins showing.
Read the free lesson -
Guide 07.03 · free lessonHow to Make a Slab MugThe longest seam most people ever make. Roll the slab, cut the template, close the seam, which that lesson calls the one that fails, then add the floor and the handle.
Read the free lesson
Good to know
How is this different from the free lesson?
What is the difference between scoring and slipping?
Does it cover attaching handles?
What do I need besides clay?
Can I use any clay?
Is this too early for me?
Do I need a fancy printer?
Does it print in black and white?
Can I print just part of it?
Can I read it on a screen instead?
How does delivery work?
What happens if the guide is updated?
Can I share it?
Score both faces, slip both faces, blend until it is gone
Match the wetness, score and slip both faces, press until a bead squeezes out, blend until you cannot find the seam, then dry it slowly. Those moves take a few minutes and decide whether the join is still shut when the piece comes out of the kiln. The guide keeps them in front of you at the table.
Get the guide · $5.00

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