The Clay Hole University · Project Guides
Oil Bottles and CruetsPrintable pottery guide
The whole bottle, in the order you build it: the size of the mouth worked out before you touch clay, the neck that has to be collared without folding, and the glaze that has to stay out of the one inch your spout sits in.
- Skill level: Advanced
- 28 printable pages
- 8 video picks
- 6-question quiz + answer key
- Instant download
- Prints on any printer
- The lesson stays free
What is the Oil Bottles and Cruets printable guide?
It is the cruet on paper: how to work back from the spout you bought to the wet mouth you throw, a table of wet sizes for every clay body The Clay Hole stocks, a fourteen step throw with the two steps people skip, collaring a neck in short moves, a rim that does not drip, trimming in a chuck, spouts, corks and thrown stoppers, and how to dry, fire and glaze something you cannot reach inside. Built to be printed, written in and kept beside the wheel.
Prefer to read it online first? The “Throwing Oil Bottles and Cruets” lesson is free, and always will be.
- 28printable pages, US Letter
- 6quiz questions, with a full answer key
- 8hand-picked videos, each with a QR code
- 17glossary terms in plain language
- 2workbook pages you fill in yourself
Every bottle that fails, fails at the mouth
Almost nothing about a cruet is hard. The belly is a cylinder you pushed out from the inside, and the foot is a foot. What makes it a real project is that the working part is a hole you cannot see into and cannot get a finger into, and it has to finish at one particular size.
The clay shrinks and the glaze adds a little back, so the size you throw is not the size you get. Miss it by two millimeters and the spout you bought either rattles around in it or will not go in at all. That is a very expensive vase.
So the order of work runs backwards from every other pot: decide the finished hole, work back to the wet one, then throw a bottle around it. The sum is one line long. Knowing when to do it, and what to do to the neck and the glaze afterwards so the number survives two firings, is the rest of the guide.
Real pages, for a bench with a pair of calipers on it
These are actual pages from the guide, shown here with the sample watermark.

Before you beginSix boxes on one page: what you will learn, what to have on the bench, what is worth knowing, the common pitfalls, what success looks like and how to practice. The list of what you need includes the spout, bought before you start. 
A cruet in sectionThe bottle cut down the middle, with six numbered parts and the key beside the drawing. The mouth is part one, and it is the only dimension on the pot that has to be a particular number. 
Spouts, corks and stoppersThree ways to close a bottle side by side, and what each one asks of the mouth: the pour spout that forgives a millimeter, the cork that doubles as your gauge, and the thrown stopper that is the most work. 
Every bottle, and the mouth you setA log to write in: the clay, the spout you measured, the wet mouth you set, the mouth after bisque and whether it fitted. Two rows in and the second bottle starts from a number instead of a memory.
The number has to be written down before you sit at the wheel
A cruet is decided twice: once on the bench with a spout and a pair of calipers, and once at the wheel with wet hands. Paper suits both.
It holds still
A page stays exactly where you left it while you collar a neck with both hands. It does not time out, and it does not need slip wiped off the screen.
A number to carry
The wet mouth is one measurement, and it is worked out before you sit down. The guide has a table for every clay and a page to write your own on, so you carry it to the wheel instead of remembering it.
Lists you can keep beside the wheel
The whole job comes down to three short lists: before you sit down, on the wheel, and after it comes off. They are the pages worth having in front of you when your hands are busy.
Two firings later
You do not find out whether a mouth fitted until it has been through the kiln twice. A log on paper is how the second bottle gets better than the first.
Rebuilt for paper, not printed from a web page
Every guide in the series is set from scratch for print. Here is what that meant for this one.
The sum, run again
Every row of the wet mouth table was recomputed from the lesson’s own formula. Three rows were a tenth of a millimeter high, and they are corrected.
A drawing that was measured
The lesson’s shrinkage drawing says it is drawn to scale. We measured it against the numbers and it holds, to within the width of the pen line.
A glaze claim that stopped short
The clay is vitrified and will not weep oil. The glaze is a separate question, so the guide says that and sends you to the glaze rating lookup instead of promising that every glaze is fine.
The kiln and dust rules, put back
A kiln cookie goes under a glazed bottle every time, and a bisque mouth is opened out with wet sandpaper, never a dry file. Both were missing from the lesson’s own lists.
Written for any studio
Our clay and our firing are named as ours and dated, so a reader working somewhere else knows which parts are a Clay Hole fact and which are a rule of the craft.
Codes that keep working
Every link is a short Clay Hole address. If a video moves, we repoint the address and your printed copy still goes to the right place.
The lesson is free. It always will be.
All of the teaching in this guide comes from the free “Throwing Oil Bottles and Cruets” lesson, and that lesson is not going anywhere.
I have lost count of the good-looking bottles that have come back to the bench with a pour spout that will not go in them. Nothing was wrong with anybody’s hands.
So turn it around. Buy the spouts, hold one against a pair of calipers, and let its size tell you what to throw.
That is really all a cruet is: ordinary throwing, with the steps in an order you are not used to.
Dan Pearce, founder of The Clay Hole
Build a little pottery library
Every printable guide in The Clay Hole University series takes one free lesson and rebuilds it for paper, with workbook pages, a glossary and a quiz with a worked answer key. Each one keeps its number for good, so a guide you buy today is the same guide in the same place next year.
Put any five printable guides in your cart and the cheapest one is on us. Put in nine and the two cheapest are on us. It happens automatically at checkout, no code to remember.
- 5guides in your cart1 on us
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Three lessons that pick up where this one leaves off
Each one is free to read online, and the codes in the guide take you straight there.
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Guide 06.03 · free lessonGooseneck and Skinny Neck PotsWhen a cruet neck stops frightening you and you want a much longer one. That guide is collaring taken to its limit: how much a wall can lose per pass, and three routes to the same tall thin shape.
Read the free lesson -
Guide 06.05 · free lessonThrowing Enclosed FormsA cruet belly is pushed out from the inside and closed in toward the neck, which is most of the way to a closed form. That guide finishes the job, and explains why a sealed pot can carry a belly that would fold an open one.
Read the free lesson -
Guide 06.09 · free lessonThrowing Lids That FitThe other pot where a measurement decides everything, and the calipers come out again. A stopper is a lid that has to fit a hole, and that guide is about making things that fit.
Read the free lesson
Good to know
How is this different from the free lesson?
Do I have to buy the spout first?
Do I need a wheel?
Does the table work for any clay?
Is this too early for me?
Will the bottle be food safe?
Do I need a fancy printer?
Does it print in black and white?
Can I print just part of it?
Can I read it on a screen instead?
How does delivery work?
What happens if the guide is updated?
Can I share it?
Measure the hole, and the bottle takes care of itself
Buy the spout, work back to the wet mouth, and collar the neck in short moves. Do those three and the rest is ordinary throwing. Get the first one wrong and no amount of skill at the wheel will save the pot, which is why this is worth reading before you cut into the clay rather than after.
Get the guide · $12.50


