The Clay Hole University · Surface and Decoration
Carving and SgraffitoPrintable pottery guide
Cut a drawing into a pot at the moment the clay is ready for it, choose the tool and the depth, and stop losing carved pieces to chips, smears and cracks.
- Skill level: Intermediate
- 30 printable pages
- 8 video picks
- 8-question quiz + answer key
- Instant download
- Prints on any printer
- The lesson stays free
What is the Carving and Sgraffito printable guide?
It is the carving bench on paper: how carving differs from sgraffito, how to find the moisture window with a thumbnail and with the shine of a coating, eight tools and what each is for, the depth limit that keeps a wall whole, sgraffito in steps, five ways to carve, mishima, how to clear burrs and crumbs safely, and what glaze does to every cut. Built to be printed, kept beside the wheel and written in.
Prefer to read it online first? The “Carving and Sgraffito” lesson is free, and always will be.
- 30printable pages, US Letter
- 8quiz questions, with a full answer key
- 8hand-picked videos, each with a QR code
- 20glossary terms in plain language
- 2workbook pages you fill in yourself
It was never your drawing
A carved pot is decided before the tool touches it. Cut a little soon and the line smudges shut. Cut a little late and the edge flakes. Cut too deep into a thin wall and the crack shows up in the bisque, through the best line on the pot. None of that is about how well you draw.
That is good news, because timing and depth are things you can learn. A thumbnail tells you whether clay is ready. The shine on a coating tells you whether sgraffito is ready. A simple limit on depth keeps a wall whole.
The guide lays that out in order, from the coating to the glaze, and gives you a page to write down the stage you cut each piece at and what came out of the kiln, so the next one starts from a note and not a guess.
Real pages, for the bench beside your work
These are actual pages from the guide, shown here with the sample watermark.

Before you beginOne page before you pick up a tool: what you will learn, what to have on the bench, what is worth knowing, the common pitfalls and what a good cut looks like. 
The moisture windowThe two tests for finding the window, the thumbnail and the shine of a coating, and a table of the four stages with what each is good for and what goes wrong. 
Six things that go wrongA chip, a smear, a gray blur, a crack in the bisque, a carving that vanished and a coating that flaked, each one read back to its cause with what to do next time. 
Every piece you carveA log to write in: the technique, the stage you cut it at, the wall and the depth, the coating and the glaze, and what happened. A few rows in and the next piece starts from a note.
Carving is done with clay on your hands
The steps are short and the stakes are in the timing, which is not a moment to be scrolling a screen. Paper sits still beside the wheel.
The sheet stays in view
The one page sheet has what to do before you cut, while you cut and after you cut. Pin it up at the bench and it is there when a glance is all you have.
It holds still
A page stays where you put it while you test a thumbnail against the foot or watch a coating lose its shine. It does not lock its screen, and it does not mind wet hands.
A stage to write down
The log has a column for the stage you cut each piece at. The next piece of that kind starts from a real note instead of a hunch.
A fault index for the shelf
The at a glance page has the four stages, the numbers worth remembering and six faults read back to their causes. It pins up beside your work.
Rebuilt for paper, not printed from a web page
Every guide in the series is set from scratch for print. Here is what that meant for this one.
Dust habits, said plainly
Scraping or brushing bone dry clay makes silica dust. The guide says to scrape at leather hard, to brush gently over a damp towel, and to wipe the table down wet. The free lesson now says the same.
One way to hold the window open
How to keep a piece at leather hard between visits, and what not to expect from a piece that has already gone bone dry. The guide and the lesson now agree with the drying lessons.
Video notes that say what the video shows
Several notes in the free lesson described things their videos do not show. We checked each against the video’s own description, chapters and frames, and rewrote them in the guide and in the lesson.
Written for any studio
The Clay Hole’s own rules, such as the kiln cookie under every piece, its underglaze brands and its prices, are named and dated as Clay Hole facts, so a reader working somewhere else knows which line is ours.
A quiz that explains itself
A short quiz, and an answer key that gives the reason behind every answer rather than only the letter.
Codes that keep working
Every link is a short Clay Hole address. If a video moves, we repoint the address and your printed copy still goes to the right place.
The lesson is free. It always will be.
All of the teaching in this guide comes from the free “Carving and Sgraffito” lesson, and that lesson is not going anywhere.
You do not need to draw well to carve well. A blade does not care that your hand wobbled, and a shape cut out of a dark field looks like a decision even when it was an accident.
What loses pots is timing, and timing is something your hands can learn. Between soon and late there is a short stretch when the blade just glides, and once your hands have felt it they know where to look.
So pick up a scrap and cut a few lines at different stages. Then do it on something you care about.
Dan Pearce, founder of The Clay Hole
Build a little pottery library
Every printable guide in The Clay Hole University series takes one free lesson and rebuilds it for paper, with workbook pages, a glossary and a quiz with a worked answer key. Each one keeps its number for good, so a guide you buy today is the same guide in the same place next year.
Put any five printable guides in your cart and the cheapest one is on us. Put in nine and the two cheapest are on us. It happens automatically at checkout, no code to remember.
- 5guides in your cart1 on us
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Three lessons that pick up where this one leaves off
Each one is free to read online, and the codes in the guide take you straight there.
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Guide 01.02 · free lessonThe Five Stages of ClayEverything here depends on knowing what stage the clay is in. That lesson is the map underneath it: how to tell which of the five stages a piece is at, why leather hard comes in two kinds, and what you can and cannot do to each.
Read the free lesson -
Guide 07.06 · free lessonKurinuki: Carving a Pot from a Solid BlockKurinuki is carving taken all the way, a whole pot dug out of a solid block. Its stiffness window is this guide’s window at a bigger scale, and it has its own section on glazing something carved.
Read the free lesson -
Guide 09.10 · free lessonDrying Awkward PiecesA deep cut is a thin spot, and thin spots finish drying first. That lesson is the general rule behind it: find the part of a piece that finishes first, cover that part on its own, and bring the cover off one setting at a time.
Read the free lesson
Good to know
How is this different from the free lesson?
Is this only for sgraffito?
What do I need to try it?
Is this too early for me?
Does it only work at The Clay Hole?
Can I carve a piece that is already bisqued?
Do I need a fancy printer?
Does it print in black and white?
Can I print just part of it?
Can I read it on a screen instead?
How does delivery work?
What happens if the guide is updated?
Can I share it?
Find the window, and cut
Test the clay with your thumbnail, cut through the coating when the shine has gone, keep every cut inside the depth limit, and clear the crumbs without a wet sponge. Those habits take seconds and decide whether the pot comes out of the kiln with a line worth seeing. The guide keeps them in front of you at the bench.
Get the guide · $10.00


