The Clay Hole University Ā· Project Guides
A Teapot, Spout and AllPrintable pottery guide
The whole teapot, in the order you build it: where the spout has to sit, the strainer holes that come before it, and a lid that stays in when you pour.
- Skill level: Advanced
- 31 printable pages
- 8 video picks
- 7-question quiz + answer key
- Instant download
- Prints on any printer
- The lesson stays free
What is the printable guide A Teapot, Spout and All?
It is the teapot on paper: the one height that decides whether it pours, three ways to make the spout, why the strainer holes are cut first, a lid that stays in when you tip the pot, where the handle goes, and the slab and pinch routes for anybody without a wheel. Built to be printed, kept on the bench and written in.
Prefer to read it online first? The āBuilding a Teapot, Spout and Allā lesson is free, and always will be.
- 31printable pages, US Letter
- 7quiz questions, with a full answer key
- 8hand-picked videos, each with a QR code
- 20glossary terms in plain language
- 2workbook pages you fill in yourself
It is only a bowl with a plumbing problem
Almost every part of a teapot is something you already know how to make. A round pot, a lid, a pulled handle. What turns them into a teapot is a tapered tube stuck to the side at an angle, and one height that decides whether the finished thing pours or dribbles down its own belly.
That height is set before the spout goes anywhere near the pot, and nothing fixes it afterwards. The guide starts there, then works through the parts in the order they can be done: the strainer holes first, while you can still reach the wall, then the spout, then the handle last.
None of it is a secret. It is a lot of small decisions that all have to agree, which is exactly what paper is good at. The steps are numbered, the sizes sit in one table, and you can leave it open beside the wheel with clay on your hands.
Real pages, for a bench with a teapot on it
These are actual pages from the guide, shown here with the sample watermark.

Before you beginOne page before you touch clay: what you will learn, what to have on the bench, what is worth knowing, the pitfalls, and what a teapot that works looks like. 
A teapot in sectionThe cutaway drawing with the fill line dashed across it, and the seven numbered parts explained beside it. Everything on it is decided before the spout is attached. 
A lid that stays inGallery or flange but never both, the air hole, and how to keep the lid in the pot when you tip it. Then the note on fitting it at every stage, wet sanding only. 
Every teapot, and how it pouredA log to write in: the clay, where the tip landed against the lid seat, how many holes you cut, the pour test at bisque and the result after the glaze firing. The second one starts from numbers instead of memory.
A teapot is a lot of small decisions
Six parts have to agree with each other, across two working days, with clay on your hands in between. Paper suits that.
The order is written down
Holes before spout, handle last, lid in the pot from the drying shelf to the end of the glaze firing. Three of the steps become impossible if you do them out of sequence, and the numbered build keeps you honest.
The sizes sit in one table
Wall thickness, collar height, tip opening, hole count and how much longer to throw the spout, side by side, not scattered through a long video.
It holds still
A page stays where you left it while you scribe a spout against a pot with both hands. It does not time out, and it does not need slip wiped off the screen.
A test to write down
Pour water through it at the bisque, before the glaze goes on, and note what happened. That is the last cheap moment to change the tip, and the log has a column for it.
Rebuilt for paper, not printed from a web page
Every guide in the series is set from scratch for print. Here is what that meant for this one.
Wet, every time
Where the lesson ground or sanded fired clay without saying wet, the guide says wet and never dry. Dry grinding puts silica dust in the air.
A glaze for a hot drink
The inside of a teapot holds tea for a long time. The guide says the glaze has to be one its maker rates for food, and points to the Food Safe Lookup for which ones are.
Video notes that match the video
Where a note said a film showed something it does not, the guide says what is on screen. A drip fix that uses a strip of soda can is described as that, and a slab and coil teapot is not called a pinch teapot.
Written for any studio
Our cone numbers and our firing rules are named as ours, so a reader working somewhere else knows which parts are a Clay Hole fact and which are a rule of the craft.
A quiz that explains itself
An answer key that gives the reason behind every answer rather than only the letter, with a few of the reasons written out in full for print.
Codes that keep working
Every link is a short Clay Hole address. If a video moves, we repoint the address and your printed copy still goes to the right place.
The lesson is free. It always will be.
All of the teaching in this guide comes from the free āBuilding a Teapot, Spout and Allā lesson, and that lesson is not going anywhere.
A teapot is meant for a table. It gets set down in front of other people, it has to do something, and everybody watching knows within a second whether it worked.
No other pot tells you so plainly what you got right.
A teapot that works is a very easy thing to be proud of.
Dan Pearce, founder of The Clay Hole
Build a little pottery library
Every printable guide in The Clay Hole University series takes one free lesson and rebuilds it for paper, with workbook pages, a glossary and a quiz with a worked answer key. Each one keeps its number for good, so a guide you buy today is the same guide in the same place next year.
Put any five printable guides in your cart and the cheapest one is on us. Put in nine and the two cheapest are on us. It happens automatically at checkout, no code to remember.
- 5guides in your cart1 on us
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Three lessons that pick up where this one leaves off
Each one is free to read online, and the codes in the guide take you straight there.
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Guide 05.09 · free lessonCollaring In to Narrow a NeckEvery spout in this guide is a neck lying on its side, and the taper comes from collaring. That guide is the move on its own, including the rhythm of collar, pull, collar, pull that people rush most when they throw a spout.
Read the free lesson -
Guide 06.09 · free lessonThrowing Lids That FitA teapot lid has a job a jar lid never has, which is to stay in when the pot is tipped. That guide is where the seat comes from: how to cut the ledge a lid sits on, and how to throw the lid to the number.
Read the free lesson -
Guide 08.17 · free lessonPitchers and Ewers That Actually PourThe other pot where the last two millimeters of a spout decide everything. That guide has four ways to build a spout and the undercut that stops it dripping, which is the same cut a teapot needs.
Read the free lesson
Good to know
How is this different from the free lesson?
Do I need a wheel?
Is this too early for me?
How big should a first teapot be?
Can I put it on the stove?
Do I need a fancy printer?
Does it print in black and white?
Can I print just part of it?
Can I read it on a screen instead?
How does delivery work?
What happens if the guide is updated?
Can I share it?
Settle the height first, and the rest is assembly
Work out where the top of the spout opening has to sit, cut the strainer holes before the spout goes on, and keep the lid in the pot from the drying shelf to the end of the glaze firing. Do those three things and the rest is parts you already know how to make. Skip any one of them and no amount of skill will fix a teapot that pours out of the spout while you fill it.
Get the guide · $10.00


