The Clay Hole University · Surface and Decoration
Wax, Latex, Tape and Paper ResistsPrintable pottery guide
Ask whether it has to come off before the kiln, pick the resist, apply it, let it dry all the way, glaze away from the edge and peel at the right moment, with the order and the waits set out so the edge comes out sharp.
- Skill level: Beginner
- 24 printable pages
- 6 video picks
- 8-question quiz + answer key
- Instant download
- Prints on any printer
- The lesson stays free
What is the Wax, Latex, Tape and Paper Resists printable guide?
It is the resist lesson on paper: the one question that picks between wax, paper, latex, tape, rubber bands and stickers, which one suits leather hard clay, bisque and a first glaze, how to apply each and let it dry all the way, brushing glaze away from the edge, the peel window, and the common faults with what each one is telling you. Steps with tick lists, a one page summary for the glaze table, and a log for every pot. Built to be printed and written on.
Prefer to read it online first? The “Wax, Latex, Tape and Paper Resists” lesson is free, and always will be.
- 24printable pages, US Letter
- 8quiz questions, with a full answer key
- 6hand-picked videos, each with a QR code
- 11glossary terms in plain language
- 2workbook pages you fill in yourself
Let it dry, then glaze away from the edge
A resist looks simple and is mostly timing. The wax has to go matte before glaze goes near it. The latex has to go from milky to clear and rubbery. The peel has to come when the glaze has lost its shine and is not yet powder. None of those waits is long, and all of them are easy to rush when the glaze table is busy.
The other half is knowing which resist you need before you start. Wax and paper burn out. Latex, tape, rubber bands and stickers have to come off before the pot goes anywhere near a kiln. That one question picks the resist, and it is worth having on paper where you can see it with a brush in your hand.
The guide keeps the order in front of you with a tick list at each step, names what goes wrong and what it means, and leaves room for a pot log and a one page summary. The log is where the resist, the stage of the clay and the wait get written down, so the next pot starts from a note and not a guess.
Real pages, for the glaze table beside your work
These are actual pages from the guide, shown here with the sample watermark.

What you needThe table list on one page: wax and its own brush, latex and a soaped brush, tape, newsprint, rubber bands and stickers, and a barely damp sponge with a needle tool. 
Step oneMatch the resist to the job and the stage. Which ones the kiln takes off, which ones you peel, and what suits leather hard clay, bisque and a first glaze, with a tick list to finish before you pick up a brush. 
At The Clay HoleThe studio page: how wax is set up by Level, the jar rule, and what has to be off a pot before it goes to the drop-off table. It is named as ours, so it is clear which lines are the studio’s and which are the craft’s. 
Every pot, and how the resist behavedA log to write in: the resist, the stage, how long it dried, the glaze over it and how the edge came out. The last column is the one that pays, because the next pot starts from it.
You do this with a brush in one hand and a wet pot in the other
Resist work happens at the glaze table, with your attention on the edge and not on a screen. Paper suits that.
The one question stays in view
Off before the kiln, or off in the kiln. It picks the resist, and on a page beside the pot it is there every time without a clean finger to find it.
The waits, ticked off
Wax matte, latex clear, peel at matte. Each step has a tick list, so you can tell at a glance whether you waited or only meant to.
A log that holds the timing
The pot log has a column for the resist, the stage, how long it dried, the glaze over it and how the edge came out. By the time the kiln opens you will have forgotten, and the page has not.
One page for the glaze table
The one page summary has the five resists, the order and what each fault is telling you. It pins up beside the glaze for the moments when your hands are full.
Rebuilt for paper, not printed from a web page
Every guide in the series is set from scratch for print. Here is what that meant for this one.
Checked against our other lessons
We read this lesson against our dipping lesson and the glaze certification. Wax goes on dry bisque first, a dipped pot is left alone while wet and its waxed foot is checked last, and no brush ever goes into a glaze jar. The guide and the free lesson now say the same.
Dust and fumes, said plainly
Latex is ammonia, so the guide says use it near a door and stop if it bothers you. Fired bisque is never scraped dry, and a wet diamond pad with safety glasses and an N95 or better is the way to take off a bead.
Video picks, described by what they show
Six videos from other potters, and each note says only what its description and chapter list show, not more.
Written for any studio
The Clay Hole’s own rules, such as wax by Level, the jar rule and what has to be off a pot before the drop-off table, are named as ours, so a reader working somewhere else knows which line is the studio’s and which is a rule of the craft.
A quiz that explains itself
A short quiz, and an answer key that gives the reason behind every answer rather than only the letter, worded to match the corrected lesson.
Codes that keep working
Every link, video picks included, is a short Clay Hole address. If a video moves, we repoint the address and your printed copy still goes to the right place.
The lesson is free. It always will be.
All of the teaching in this guide comes from the free “Wax, Latex, Tape and Paper Resists” lesson, and that lesson is not going anywhere.
I love a resist because it makes a plain pot look like you planned it.
The part nobody tells you is that the skill is patience.
So work out what has to come off before the kiln, and what the kiln will take care of.
Dan Pearce, founder of The Clay Hole
Build a little pottery library
Every printable guide in The Clay Hole University series takes one free lesson and rebuilds it for paper, with workbook pages, a glossary and a quiz with a worked answer key. Each one keeps its number for good, so a guide you buy today is the same guide in the same place next year.
Put any five printable guides in your cart and the cheapest one is on us. Put in nine and the two cheapest are on us. It happens automatically at checkout, no code to remember.
- 5guides in your cart1 on us
- 9guides in your cart2 on us
Three lessons that pick up where this one leaves off
Each one is free to read online, and the codes in the guide take you straight there.
-
Guide 10.03 · free lessonMishima, Slip Inlaid into Carved LinesThis guide stops at the peel. That lesson takes wax a step further: carve a line through it and flood the line with slip, so the drawing sits flush with the clay.
Read the free lesson -
Guide 10.01 · free lessonHow to Use UnderglazeTape and stencils under underglaze are covered there, with the brush work and the firing order, which this guide leaves out.
Read the free lesson -
Guide 10.12 · free lesson40 Ways to Add Texture, and When to Apply EachWax between glaze coats is one of forty on that page. It shows where a resist sits among every other way to texture a pot, and which stage of the clay each one needs.
Read the free lesson
Good to know
How is this different from the free lesson?
What do I need to try it?
Is this too early for me?
Do I need a fancy printer?
Does it print in black and white?
Can I print just part of it?
Can I read it on a screen instead?
How does delivery work?
What happens if the guide is updated?
Can I share it?
Dry first, glaze away from the edge, peel at matte
Ask what has to come off before the kiln, let the resist dry all the way, brush away from the edge, and peel when the shine is gone and the powder has not started. Those habits take minutes and decide whether the edge is sharp. The guide keeps them in front of you at the glaze table.
Get the guide · $7.00


