The Clay Hole University · Surface and Decoration
Mason Stains in Clay, Slip and GlazePrintable pottery guide
Pick the use, weigh the powder by dry weight, wet it to a paste, mix it in until the color is even, and fire a tile before the pot, with the order and the respirator set out so the first batch works.
- Skill level: Intermediate
- 24 printable pages
- 6 video picks
- 8-question quiz + answer key
- Instant download
- Prints on any printer
- The lesson stays free
What is the Mason Stains in Clay, Slip and Glaze printable guide?
It is the stain lesson on paper: the four uses and the percentage for each, why you read the note on the jar before you choose a base, the respirator and the weighing by dry weight, wetting the powder to a paste, wedging or sieving until the color is even, and the tile that decides the rest. Each of the common faults is set out with what it is telling you. Steps with tick lists, a one page summary for the bench, and a log for every tile. Built to be printed and written on.
Prefer to read it online first? The “Mason Stains in Clay, Slip and Glaze” lesson is free, and always will be.
- 24printable pages, US Letter
- 8quiz questions, with a full answer key
- 6hand-picked videos, each with a QR code
- 12glossary terms in plain language
- 2workbook pages you fill in yourself
Weigh it, wet it, then fire the tile
One jar of stain can color a clay body, a slip or engobe, a glaze or a wash, and the percentage is different for each. It is also fine powder, so the respirator goes on before the jar opens, and the weighing happens over a damp towel and not at a shared table. That is not a list you want to scroll to with gloves on.
The numbers are the other half. Every percentage is by dry weight, which means working out what the clay, the slip or the glaze weighs without its water before any stain goes on the scale. Write those numbers where you can see them. A phone goes dark, gets powdery and ends up in the wrong place. A page stays where you put it.
The guide keeps the order in front of you with a tick list at each step, names what goes wrong and what it means, and leaves room for a tile log and a one page summary. The log is where the stain, the percentage and the base get written down, so the next tile starts from a note and not a guess.
Real pages, for the bench beside your work
These are actual pages from the guide, shown here with the sample watermark.

What you needThe bench list on one page: the jar, a scale, a fitted respirator and gloves, a sieve, the clay, slip or glaze it is going into, and test tiles, with a word on the item people skip. 
Step onePick the use, then the percentage. Clay body, slip and engobe, glaze and wash each get their own range, then the note on the jar, with a tick list to finish before you weigh anything. 
When it goes wrongThe start of the fault section. Each fault says why it happens, what to change next time, and what can still be done with the piece in your hand. 
Every tile, and how it turned outA log to write in: the stain and color, what it went into, the percentage, the base and what happened. The last column is the one that pays, because the next tile starts from it.
You do this in a respirator, with powder on your gloves
Stain work is done at the bench, covered and careful, looking at the scale and not at a screen. Paper suits that.
The respirator line stays in view
The first thing on the order is the thing that protects you. On a page beside the scale it is there every time, and it does not need a clean finger to find.
The percentages, worked out and written down
Dry weight first, then the stain to the percentage, in pencil next to the steps. You can check the sum again at the scale without losing your place.
A log that holds the recipe
The tile log has a column for the stain, what it went into, the percentage and the base. By the time the kiln opens you will have forgotten what went in, and the page has not.
One page for the bench
The one page summary has the uses, the order and what each fault is telling you. It pins up beside the jar for the moments when your hands are full.
Rebuilt for paper, not printed from a web page
Every guide in the series is set from scratch for print. Here is what that meant for this one.
A respirator, said plainly
The guide says a fitted respirator, names the level for mixing powder, keeps it on until the powder is wet and the bench is wiped down, and keeps the work away from shared tables. The free lesson says the same.
A wash that stays on
We checked the wash against our washes lesson. A wash is stain and flux with water added until it looks like watercolor. Without the flux the color can dust off after the firing, so the guide and the lesson now say so.
Food safety follows the glaze
A stained clay or a wash under a clear glaze is only as safe as that clear, so the guide sends you to check the clear first. Bare stained clay and a bare wash stay off food surfaces, and so do the stains that are known to need a test.
Written for any studio
The Clay Hole’s own rules, such as where stained scraps and rinse water go and how tiles are fired here, are named and dated as Clay Hole facts, so a reader working somewhere else knows which line is ours and which is a rule of the craft.
A quiz that explains itself
A short quiz, and an answer key that gives the reason behind every answer rather than only the letter, worded to match the corrected lesson.
Codes that keep working
Every link, video picks included, is a short Clay Hole address. If a video moves, we repoint the address and your printed copy still goes to the right place.
The lesson is free. It always will be.
All of the teaching in this guide comes from the free “Mason Stains in Clay, Slip and Glaze” lesson, and that lesson is not going anywhere.
I love a stain because it is the most honest thing on the shelf. It has already been through a kiln, so it does the same thing every time, and all you have to decide is how much and what it goes into.
So make the tile before the pot, every time, and write the percentage on the back.
Your first stained glaze will be paler than the jar, and the tile is how you find that out cheaply.
Dan Pearce, founder of The Clay Hole
Build a little pottery library
Every printable guide in The Clay Hole University series takes one free lesson and rebuilds it for paper, with workbook pages, a glossary and a quiz with a worked answer key. Each one keeps its number for good, so a guide you buy today is the same guide in the same place next year.
Put any five printable guides in your cart and the cheapest one is on us. Put in nine and the two cheapest are on us. It happens automatically at checkout, no code to remember.
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Three lessons that pick up where this one leaves off
Each one is free to read online, and the codes in the guide take you straight there.
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Guide 10.17 · free lessonMaking and Using Pottery WashesThis guide gives you the wash in one line. That lesson explains why the flux is in it and what goes wrong without one, which is a color that dusts off after the firing.
Read the free lesson -
Guide 10.05 · free lessonEngobes: What They Are and When to Use OneWhen a stained slip turns into a coating, this is the lesson. It also says why the studio approves the ready-made ones and not a homemade engobe.
Read the free lesson -
Guide 10.01 · free lessonHow to Use UnderglazeIf you would rather buy the color than mix it, this is the lesson for the bottle. It covers the brush work, and the few underglazes that need a main instructor’s yes first.
Read the free lesson
Good to know
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Respirator on, paste first, tile before the pot
Pick the use, weigh by dry weight, wet the powder, mix until it is even, and write the percentage and the base on the back of a tile. Those habits take minutes and decide whether the color is there after the firing. The guide keeps them in front of you at the bench.
Get the guide · $12.50


