Crawl
1 glazes / Coyote
One glaze, and it does something none of the others do: it pulls itself apart in the kiln.
A crawl glaze beads up and cracks on purpose, leaving a texture rather than a coating. It is for sculpture and accents, not for the inside of a mug.
Cone 5/6Bisque to Cone 04
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Crawl by the numbers
1glazes on our shelves
1at Purple Level
Friendly studio tip for this glaze family
A crawl glaze is supposed to look broken.
It pulls itself apart in the firing into a beaded, cracked surface, which is the entire point and not a fault you caused. Coyote suggest putting it over another glaze or a bright underglaze so the color underneath shows through the gaps.
It is not for anything you eat off. Keep it on the outside of a pot or on sculpture.
Every Crawl glaze we have in house
Hover any tile to see a pot fired in it, or tap once on a phone.
Jump straight to one
Nothing by that name.
1 to choose from
How the Crawl line works
One glaze, fired between witness cone 5 and witness cone 6.
Coyote's Blue Crawl is the only crawl on our shelf. It is not recommended for food use, and it is at its best over another glaze or a bright underglaze where the color can show through the breaks.
Coats
A crawl glaze is applied thick and left to do what it does. The surface it makes is not smooth and is not meant to be.
Because it breaks up, it works as an accent or over another glaze rather than as a whole-pot finish.
Layering
Coyote suggest putting a crawl over another glaze or over a bright underglaze, so the color shows through the gaps the crawl opens up.
Food and safety
Coyote do not recommend the Crawl glazes for food use. A crawled surface is broken and porous by design, which is not a surface for eating from.
Use it on sculpture, on the outside of a pot, or as an accent.
Clays that suit Crawl
The crawl comes from the glaze, not the clay, so any body on our shelf will carry it.
Any body works#16 Porcelain through Berlin Gray.
Over a colorCoyote recommend a crawl over another glaze or a bright underglaze, so the color shows through the breaks.
Not for food surfacesA crawled surface is broken by design. Keep it to the outside of a pot or to sculpture.
Worth knowingCoyote say crystals can form in the liquid glaze if it is stored below 65F.
From The Clay Hole University
More info about Crawl below, but first... Everything we teach about glazing, written down and taught properly. These are the glaze lessons, and they are a small corner of a library that runs from centering your first pot to selling your work.
GuideGlaze Brushing Techniques, Coat by Coat
GuideGlazing Big and Intricate Pottery Faster
GuideGetting the Most Out of the Mega Glaze Tool
GuideMaking, Logging and Dialing in Test Tiles
GuideGlaze Problems, Causes and Fixes
GuideGlazing on the Wheel for Even Coats and Clean Bands
GuideBubble Glaze with Dish Soap
GuideMixing Your Own Glazes: What It Actually Involves
GuideMaking a Glaze Catcher
GuideOxide and Carbonate Washes
GuideWhen to Use Celadon Glazes
GuideHow to Use Dipping Glazes
UnderglazeHow to Use Underglaze: Techniques, Rules and Firing
UnderglazeMishima: How to Inlay Slip and Underglaze into Carved Lines
UnderglazeWipe-Away Texture: Underglaze and Oxide Washes on Bisque
The Crawl test tile pot
Every glaze family on our shelves has its own test tile pot, and it is the fastest way to decide what to put on a piece. It is a fired pot wearing the whole family, one numbered tile per glaze, on a surface built to show you what that glaze actually does rather than just what color it is.
Look for Coyote Crawl written on the rim. Each glaze on this page carries its tile number, and the numbers run around the pot.
One trick worth knowing
Some glazes tell you loudly that they run. Others hide it. Look at how the brushed lines fired: crisp edges mean a stable glaze, and edges that went soft and fluid mean it moved, and it will move on your pot too.
About these images and what your pot will actually look like
We have done our best to represent every glaze here accurately, and you should still expect your pot to look different from what is on this screen.
Our glaze tile images are digitally created. They are built to show the character of a glaze, not to be a color match.
A screen is not a printout, a printout is not a test tile, and a test tile is not a finished pot. Each step in that chain shifts what a glaze looks like, sometimes a lot.
On top of that, the pottery itself changes the result: the clay body, how thick the glaze went on, whether it was brushed, dipped or sprayed, what was layered under or over it, where the piece sat in the kiln, how hot that spot ran, how fast it cooled, what was fired next to it, and how much texture the surface had. Two pots glazed from the same jar on the same day can come out different.
Treat every image here as a starting point, and treat a test tile fired on your own clay as the real answer.