Jewelry
C61
Jewelry is a glossy brush-on glaze from The Ceramic Shop's Pro Series line, fired cone 6.
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The quick version of Jewelry
What this glaze does
Two glazes in one jar, decided by thickness. Applied thinly it breaks on the edges to a transparent green. Applied thicker it builds into a turquoise blue.
The Ceramic Shop also note that in light reduction it can go red to purple, which is not something our electric kilns will give you, but it tells you how much iron and copper chemistry is sitting in there.
Clays that suit Jewelry
A glaze that breaks on edges wants edges. Carving, faceting and a crisp rim all read well here, and a light body keeps the transparent green honest where it thins.
These behave differently from each other on clay, so the short version is on each glaze's own page.
Applying this glaze to your work
Worth knowing before you pick one up: this line is formulated for dipping, not brushing. The Ceramic Shop thins it with water for spraying and recommends adding a brushing medium such as Veegum T if you are going to brush it. Ours are on the shelf as brush-on, so treat an even coat as the thing to aim for.
Cone 6, which is where our glaze kilns run.
Because the line was built to be dipped, the surface rewards evenness. Where thickness does matter, and on Jewelry it matters a lot, it is called out on that glaze's own page.
From The Clay Hole University
More info about Jewelry below, but first... Everything we teach about glazing, written down and taught properly. These are the glaze lessons, and they are a small corner of a library that runs from centering your first pot to selling your work.
GuideGlaze Brushing Techniques, Coat by Coat
GuideGlazing Big and Intricate Pottery Faster
GuideGetting the Most Out of the Mega Glaze Tool
GuideMaking, Logging and Dialing in Test Tiles
GuideGlaze Problems, Causes and Fixes
GuideGlazing on the Wheel for Even Coats and Clean Bands
GuideBubble Glaze with Dish Soap
GuideMixing Your Own Glazes: What It Actually Involves
GuideMaking a Glaze Catcher
GuideOxide and Carbonate Washes
GuideWhen to Use Celadon Glazes
GuideHow to Use Dipping Glazes
UnderglazeHow to Use Underglaze: Techniques, Rules and Firing
UnderglazeMishima: How to Inlay Slip and Underglaze into Carved Lines
UnderglazeWipe-Away Texture: Underglaze and Oxide Washes on Bisque
Firing Jewelry
The Ceramic Shop rates this line for cone 6, which is where our glaze kilns run. They say it has been used in studios and schools for over a decade.
None of this is yours to manage. We handle everything on the kiln side, and every glaze on our shelves can be fired safely in our studio.
Common problems with Jewelry
Why is mine green instead of blue?
A thin coat. The green is the thin reading, the turquoise is the thick one.
Can I get the red?
Not here. The Ceramic Shop describe that as a light reduction result, and our kilns fire in oxidation.
Food and function
Lead and cadmium free, non-toxic, conforming to ASTM D-4236. The Ceramic Shop tells anyone producing dinnerware to test their own finished work, because clay body and firing both change the result. Their dry powder carries a California warning for silica and lithium carbonate, which is a mixing-room concern rather than a fired-pot one.
Lead and cadmium free, non-toxic, conforming to ASTM D-4236.
The Ceramic Shop tell anyone producing dinnerware to test their own finished work, since clay body and firing both move the result. Their dry powder carries a California warning for silica and lithium carbonate, which matters in a mixing room rather than on a fired pot.
Our test tile pots
This family does not have a test tile pot. The colors and results come out close enough to what the book shows that a pot would not tell you much more, so work from the printed Glaze Bible and the tile above.
About the The Ceramic Shop Pro Series Family
The Ceramic Shop mixes its own cone 6 glazes in Pennsylvania and sells them mostly as dry powder to studios that dip. Four of them are on our shelf.
Three are from their Pro Series. The fourth, Seaglass Aqua, is from their Sea Glass line and lives here because it sits with the others on the shelf.
A small shelf, and a different animal from the big brush-on lines beside it. The Ceramic Shop formulate these for dipping. They thin with water for spraying, and if you brush them they recommend adding a brushing medium first. Ours are set up as brush-on, so the thing to aim for is an even coat rather than the thick-and-thin trick some reactive lines reward.
More ways to pick a glaze
Membership levels that may use this glaze: Purple & Black
Not sure whether this glaze suits what you are making, or how it works with our system here? Ask an instructor. That is what we are here for, and a two minute conversation at the shelf beats a fired pot you did not want.
About these images and what your pot will actually look like
We have done our best to represent every glaze here accurately, and you should still expect your pot to look different from what is on this screen.
Our glaze tile images are digitally created. They are built to show the character of a glaze, not to be a color match.
A screen is not a printout, a printout is not a test tile, and a test tile is not a finished pot. Each step in that chain shifts what a glaze looks like, sometimes a lot.
On top of that, the pottery itself changes the result: the clay body, how thick the glaze went on, whether it was brushed, dipped or sprayed, what was layered under or over it, where the piece sat in the kiln, how hot that spot ran, how fast it cooled, what was fired next to it, and how much texture the surface had. Two pots glazed from the same jar on the same day can come out different.
Treat every image here as a starting point, and treat a test tile fired on your own clay as the real answer.