Vibro-Color
6 glazes / Coyote
Six glazes whose entire job is to be the color they say they are. No breaking, no mottling, no second color arriving in the firing.
Coyote number them MBG-200 through MBG-205, and on a shelf full of reactive glazes they are the ones that do exactly what the jar shows.
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Vibro-Color by the numbers
How the Vibro-Color line works
Saturated, opaque and bright, and that is the whole pitch. Coyote built the line for potters who want a pure color that does not fade into the background.
If you have carved something and want the carving to read, this is not the shelf. If you want a red that stays red, it is.
Coats
Three coats on cone 04 bisque for full opacity. These are not reactive, so an even coat gives you an even color.
Layering
Coyote's glazes are built to layer with each other, and a solid Vibro-Color under a reactive Coyote glaze gives the reactive one something to work against.
Food and safety
Coyote make this line for cone 5 and 6 functional ware. Test your own finished work if you sell it.
Clays that suit Vibro-Color
Opaque enough that the clay body underneath barely shows, which is part of why they stay bright on our darker bodies.
From The Clay Hole University
More info about Vibro-Color below, but first... Everything we teach about glazing, written down and taught properly. These are the glaze lessons, and they are a small corner of a library that runs from centering your first pot to selling your work.
GuideGlaze Brushing Techniques, Coat by Coat
GuideGlazing Big and Intricate Pottery Faster
GuideGetting the Most Out of the Mega Glaze Tool
GuideMaking, Logging and Dialing in Test Tiles
GuideGlaze Problems, Causes and Fixes
GuideGlazing on the Wheel for Even Coats and Clean Bands
GuideBubble Glaze with Dish Soap
GuideMixing Your Own Glazes: What It Actually Involves
GuideMaking a Glaze Catcher
GuideOxide and Carbonate Washes
GuideWhen to Use Celadon Glazes
GuideHow to Use Dipping Glazes
UnderglazeHow to Use Underglaze: Techniques, Rules and Firing
UnderglazeMishima: How to Inlay Slip and Underglaze into Carved Lines
UnderglazeWipe-Away Texture: Underglaze and Oxide Washes on Bisque
The Vibro-Color test tile pot
Every glaze family on our shelves has its own test tile pot, and it is the fastest way to decide what to put on a piece. It is a fired pot wearing the whole family, one numbered tile per glaze, on a surface built to show you what that glaze actually does rather than just what color it is.
Look for Coyote Vibro-Color written on the rim. Each glaze on this page carries its tile number, and the numbers run around the pot.
Some glazes tell you loudly that they run. Others hide it. Look at how the brushed lines fired: crisp edges mean a stable glaze, and edges that went soft and fluid mean it moved, and it will move on your pot too.
About these images and what your pot will actually look like
We have done our best to represent every glaze here accurately, and you should still expect your pot to look different from what is on this screen.
Our glaze tile images are digitally created. They are built to show the character of a glaze, not to be a color match.
A screen is not a printout, a printout is not a test tile, and a test tile is not a finished pot. Each step in that chain shifts what a glaze looks like, sometimes a lot.
On top of that, the pottery itself changes the result: the clay body, how thick the glaze went on, whether it was brushed, dipped or sprayed, what was layered under or over it, where the piece sat in the kiln, how hot that spot ran, how fast it cooled, what was fired next to it, and how much texture the surface had. Two pots glazed from the same jar on the same day can come out different.
Treat every image here as a starting point, and treat a test tile fired on your own clay as the real answer.

















