Flux
1 glazes / Amaco
One flux from Amaco. Honey Flux is part of their Potter's Choice line, and its job on a pot is to move whatever sits under it.
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Flux by the numbers
Friendly studio tip for this glaze family
A flux glaze is not a color. It is a verb.
Its whole job is to melt and run down the pot, pulling whatever it passes through along with it. Used on its own it is not much to look at. Used as a band above a color, it makes something neither glaze would do alone.
These are buy your own rather than stocked, and they need a protected shelf. Talk to an instructor before you fire one.
Every Flux glaze we have in house
Hover any tile to see a pot fired in it, or tap once on a phone.
Jump straight to one
Nothing by that name.
1 to choose from
How the Flux line works
A flux is not a color, it is a verb. Its job is to melt and run down the pot, pulling whatever it passes through along with it.
None of ours are stocked for general use. They are buy your own, because a running glaze needs a protected shelf and a word with an instructor before it goes in a kiln.
Coats
A flux runs, so where you stop it matters more than how thickly you brush it. Keep it well up from the foot and expect it to travel further than you think.
Most people use a flux as a band near the rim and let gravity do the rest.
Layering
A flux is only interesting over something else. Put a band of it near the rim, above a color you want moved, and let it run down through.
Over a solid color it blends. Over a reactive glaze it can do something neither of you predicted.
Food and safety
A flux is a moving glaze, so the finished surface depends entirely on what it ran through and where it settled. Test your own finished ware before using a piece for food.
Because these run, they need a shelf protected from drips. Ask an instructor before firing one.
From The Clay Hole University
More info about Flux below, but first... Everything we teach about glazing, written down and taught properly. These are the glaze lessons, and they are a small corner of a library that runs from centering your first pot to selling your work.
GuideGlaze Brushing Techniques, Coat by Coat
GuideGlazing Big and Intricate Pottery Faster
GuideGetting the Most Out of the Mega Glaze Tool
GuideMaking, Logging and Dialing in Test Tiles
GuideGlaze Problems, Causes and Fixes
GuideGlazing on the Wheel for Even Coats and Clean Bands
GuideBubble Glaze with Dish Soap
GuideMixing Your Own Glazes: What It Actually Involves
GuideMaking a Glaze Catcher
GuideOxide and Carbonate Washes
GuideWhen to Use Celadon Glazes
GuideHow to Use Dipping Glazes
UnderglazeHow to Use Underglaze: Techniques, Rules and Firing
UnderglazeMishima: How to Inlay Slip and Underglaze into Carved Lines
UnderglazeWipe-Away Texture: Underglaze and Oxide Washes on Bisque
The Flux test tile pot
This family does not have a test tile pot. The colors and results come out close enough to what the book shows that a pot would not tell you much more, so work from the printed Glaze Bible and the tile above.
About these images and what your pot will actually look like
We have done our best to represent every glaze here accurately, and you should still expect your pot to look different from what is on this screen.
Our glaze tile images are digitally created. They are built to show the character of a glaze, not to be a color match.
A screen is not a printout, a printout is not a test tile, and a test tile is not a finished pot. Each step in that chain shifts what a glaze looks like, sometimes a lot.
On top of that, the pottery itself changes the result: the clay body, how thick the glaze went on, whether it was brushed, dipped or sprayed, what was layered under or over it, where the piece sat in the kiln, how hot that spot ran, how fast it cooled, what was fired next to it, and how much texture the surface had. Two pots glazed from the same jar on the same day can come out different.
Treat every image here as a starting point, and treat a test tile fired on your own clay as the real answer.





