The Clay Hole University · Surface and Decoration
Wipe-Away TexturePrintable pottery guide
Wash a textured pot with color, wipe the high points clean, and watch the pattern you pressed into it come up, with the order, the mix and the sponge set out so the first pot works.
- Skill level: Beginner
- 24 printable pages
- 5 video picks
- 8-question quiz + answer key
- Instant download
- Prints on any printer
- The lesson stays free
What is the Wipe-Away Texture printable guide?
It is the wipe-back technique on paper: the state the clay should be in for the wash, the mix, how wet the sponge should be and when to stop, which glazes show the work and which bury it, and what each of the common faults is telling you. Four steps with tick lists, a one page summary for the bench, and a log for the mix and the wait. Built to be printed and written on.
Prefer to read it online first? The “Wipe-Away Texture” lesson is free, and always will be.
- 24printable pages, US Letter
- 8quiz questions, with a full answer key
- 5hand-picked videos, each with a QR code
- 20glossary terms in plain language
- 2workbook pages you fill in yourself
The sponge decides what stays
You pressed a leaf, a stamp or a carved line into the clay, and under a glaze it barely shows. A wipe-back fixes that in a few minutes. Flood the surface with a thin wash, wait for it to go matte, and wipe the high points clean. The color that stays in the recesses turns the texture into the design.
Most of the skill is water. How damp the sponge is, which way it moves, when to stop and what state the clay is in when the wash goes on. None of that is hard, but it is easy to get wrong on a first pot and not know why.
The guide sets the order out step by step with a tick list at each one, names what goes wrong and what it means, and leaves room to write down the mix and the wait so the second pot starts from a note and not a guess.
Real pages, for the bench beside your work
These are actual pages from the guide, shown here with the sample watermark.

Before you beginOne page before you touch clay: what you will learn, what to have on the table, what is worth knowing, the common pitfalls, and what a good wipe-back looks like when it is done. 
Step oneThe first step and its tick list: texture first, then the wash while the clay is still leather hard, and why bone dry clay drinks the wash and will not give it back. 
When it goes wrongThe start of the fault section. Each fault says why it happens, what to change next time, and what can still be done for the pot in your hand. 
Every wipe-back, and how it turned outA log to write in: the texture, the color and mix, how long you waited for matte, the glaze over it and what happened. A few rows in, the next pot starts from a note.
You do this with a sponge in one hand
A wipe-back is done at the bench with wet, colored hands, looking at the pot and not at a screen. Paper suits that.
The tick lists stay put
Each step has its own list, on a page that stays where you put it while you mix, brush and wipe. It does not lock its screen, and it does not mind a wet sponge.
Written on the page
The log has a column for the mix and another for how long you waited for matte. The next pot starts from a real number instead of a hunch.
One page for the bench
The one page summary has the order, the sponge, the studio rules and what each fault means. It pins up beside the color.
Two firings later, still there
The glaze firing is days or weeks after the wash. A printed page is still where you left it when the pot comes out of the kiln and you want to know what you did.
Rebuilt for paper, not printed from a web page
Every guide in the series is set from scratch for print. Here is what that meant for this one.
The order the studio requires
The free lesson washed a pot that had already been fired and then glazed it straight away. Underglaze is fired before any glaze goes over it, so the guide and the lesson now say: wash and wipe while the clay is leather hard, dry it, bisque it, then glaze.
Video notes that say what the video shows
Every note in the free lesson was checked against the video’s own description, chapter list and frames, and rewritten to say only what they show, in the guide and in the lesson.
Written for any studio
The Clay Hole’s own rules, such as which underglazes your level opens and where rinse water goes, are named and dated as Clay Hole facts, so a reader working somewhere else knows which line is ours and which is a rule of the craft.
A quiz that explains itself
A short quiz, and an answer key that gives the reason behind every answer rather than only the letter.
Codes that keep working
Every link is a short Clay Hole address. If a video moves, we repoint the address and your printed copy still goes to the right place.
A page to keep by the bench
The one page summary is the whole guide on a single sheet: the order, the sponge, the studio rules and what each fault is telling you.
The lesson is free. It always will be.
All of the teaching in this guide comes from the free “Wipe-Away Texture” lesson, and that lesson is not going anywhere.
I like a technique that does not add anything to a pot. This one only turns up the volume.
You spend an evening pressing a leaf or a stamp into a slab, it looks like very little in gray clay, and then a sponge crosses it once and every line is suddenly there.
So make the texture deeper than you think, and keep the sponge almost dry.
Dan Pearce, founder of The Clay Hole
Build a little pottery library
Every printable guide in The Clay Hole University series takes one free lesson and rebuilds it for paper, with workbook pages, a glossary and a quiz with a worked answer key. Each one keeps its number for good, so a guide you buy today is the same guide in the same place next year.
Put any five printable guides in your cart and the cheapest one is on us. Put in nine and the two cheapest are on us. It happens automatically at checkout, no code to remember.
- 5guides in your cart1 on us
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Three lessons that pick up where this one leaves off
Each one is free to read online, and the codes in the guide take you straight there.
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Guide 10.01 · free lessonHow to Use UnderglazeA wipe-back is one of many things underglaze does. That lesson covers the rest, from line work and stencils to the few that need a main instructor’s yes first.
Read the free lesson -
Guide 07.11 · free lessonImprinting TexturesA wipe-back is only as good as the texture under it. That lesson is the quick way to make a lot of it: roll a leaf or a piece of lace into a slab and the recesses are ready to wash.
Read the free lesson -
Guide 10.12 · free lesson40 Ways to Add Texture, and When to Apply EachPick the texture before you pick the wash. That lesson lists forty of them and tells you which stage of the clay each one wants, which is the timing question this guide keeps coming back to.
Read the free lesson
Good to know
How is this different from the free lesson?
What do I need to try it?
Does it have to be underglaze?
Why leather hard and not bisque?
Is this too early for me?
Does it only work at The Clay Hole?
Can I use it on a mug or a bowl?
Do I need a fancy printer?
Does it print in black and white?
Can I print just part of it?
Can I read it on a screen instead?
How does delivery work?
What happens if the guide is updated?
Can I share it?
Flood it, wait for matte, wipe it back
Keep the clay leather hard, thin the wash more than feels right, and keep the sponge almost dry. Those habits take seconds and decide whether the texture is still there after the glaze firing. The guide keeps them in front of you at the bench.
Get the guide · $5.00


