The Clay Hole University · Project Guides
How to Make Ceramic Spoons and LadlesPrintable pottery guide
Spoons, scoops and ladles, with the half inch that decides whether one survives, the ninety second step almost everyone skips, and the drying that quietly ruins the rest.
- Skill level: Intermediate
- 34 printable pages
- 9 video picks
- 8-question quiz + answer key
- Instant download
- Prints on any home printer
- The full lesson stays free online
What is the How to Make Ceramic Spoons and Ladles printable guide?
It is the whole spoon job on paper: how big to make each kind and how much clay to pull off the bag, four ways to shape the bowl, why a handle wants to be deeper rather than thicker, the six step join that decides everything, and how to dry, glaze and fire a thin part joined to a thick part so it comes out straight. Ladles get their own section, because every problem on a spoon is doubled on one.
Prefer to read it online first? The “Ceramic Spoons and Ladles” lesson is free, and always will be.
- 34printable pages, US Letter
- 8quiz questions, with a full answer key
- 9hand-picked videos, each with a QR code
- 22glossary terms in plain language
- 2workbook pages you fill in yourself
They all break in the same place
People who can throw a perfectly good mug make their first spoon, love it, and snap it in half in the sink four days later. That is not bad luck and it is not weak clay. A spoon is a lever with a weight on the end, so every load you put on the bowl arrives, multiplied, at the corner where the handle meets it.
Which is oddly good news. It means there is one thing to get right instead of twenty. Put a curve where that corner is, give the handle depth instead of leaving it a flat ribbon, and dry the whole thing lying supported. Three things, and the rest is detail.
All three happen at the bench, with clay on your hands, in the ninety seconds when you would rather be finished. None of them happens while you are scrolling.
Real pages, for a wet bench and a drying shelf
These are actual pages from the guide, shown here with the sample watermark. The full guide has none.

What you will learn, and what goes wrongThe whole guide in one spread before you start: what to have ready, what is worth knowing, the pitfalls, and what a finished one looks like. 
Seven parts, and only one of them is the bowlThe anatomy drawing with a numbered key beside it. The lip, the shoulder, the cross section, the taper, the tail and the rest, and what each one is actually for. 
The section to take to the tableA spoon fails at the shoulder, and the shoulder is made in about ninety seconds. Matching the stiffness first, then scoring properly, with the handle cards above it. 
The first eight spoonsA sheet you fill in: what it was, the clay, the method, how it dried and what came back out of the kiln. The pattern shows up in the drying column.
The join takes ninety seconds and both hands are covered
Bowl and handle have to meet at the same stiffness, get scored, slipped, pressed, wiggled and then filleted on both sides and underneath, and the whole window is about a minute and a half before the clay has moved on. That is the worst possible moment to be looking for a phone.
It does not go dark
A page sits there showing the six steps while you work. No timeout, no scrolling back to find where you were, no wet knuckle on a screen.
It is something you write on
A sheet for the first eight spoons, and a quick reference of the sizes, the clays and the fault index. Print them again for the next batch.
The numbers are already worked out
How long each kind finishes, how much clay to pull off the bag for it, and what it costs to fire, in one place instead of scattered through a long page.
It survives the studio
Clay dust, slip and a wet bench. A printed page you can replace for nothing beats a phone you have to wipe.
Rebuilt for paper, not printed from a web page
Every guide in the series is set from scratch for print. Here is what that meant for this one.
The anatomy drawing, with its key beside it
Seven parts, numbered on the sketch and explained alongside it rather than underneath, so you can read the part and look at the place it names without turning anything over.
Every fault, not just the one you picked
Eight ways a spoon goes wrong, each with the cause and what to change next time. On the web they are eight buttons and you only ever press one.
Ladles as their own section
Six things that change when the bowl is four inches across and gets lifted full of hot soup on the end of a foot of clay. The angle, the hook, and where the handle actually attaches.
A cheat sheet and a quick reference, doing different jobs
The lesson’s own sheet is the order of operations. The quick reference carries what it does not: the sizes, which clay, which method, the firing, and the fault index.
A sheet for the first eight spoons
A spoon takes twenty minutes, so the fastest way to get good is to make several and write down what changed. One line each, filled in at the table and again after the kiln.
A quiz, an answer key and a glossary
The same questions as the free lesson, with the reasoning behind every answer, and the words this job uses in plain language.
The lesson is free. It always will be.
All of the teaching in this guide comes from the free “Ceramic Spoons and Ladles” lesson at The Clay Hole University. No paywall, no sign-up, no trial. This is the same teaching set for paper, so you can take it to the bench.
There is a shelf in my head with every broken spoon anybody has ever carried over to me on it, and they have one thing in common. Whatever else was different, the clay, the size, who made it, the break is in the same place.
The skill is a curve. Roll a soft coil into the corner where the handle meets the bowl and blend until your finger cannot find where the two pieces met. It takes a minute and a half and it is invisible once the glaze is on, which is exactly why people skip it.
Spoons are the least photogenic thing anybody makes here, and they are the thing people keep. Nobody photographs one. They just quietly become the one somebody reaches for.
Dan Pearce, founder of The Clay Hole
Build a little pottery library
Every printable guide in The Clay Hole University series takes one free lesson and rebuilds it for paper: the teaching in the order you do it, the numbers worked out, the things that go wrong with what to do about each one, workbook pages to fill in, and a quiz with the reasoning behind every answer. This one is number 08.10, in the project guides, and its number never changes.
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Three lessons that pick up where this one leaves off
Each one is free to read online, and the codes in the guide take you straight there.
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Guide 09.05 · free lessonScoring and Slipping a JoinEvery spoon that ever broke, broke at a join, and this guide teaches that join in six steps and one fillet. 09.05 is the lesson on scoring and slipping itself: how deep, how wide, what slip to use and why a join made properly is stronger than the clay around it. It is the single most useful thing to read next.
Read the free lesson -
Guide 09.06 · free lessonHow to Pull HandlesThis guide says a pulled handle gives the nicest taper and the best surface and then sends you elsewhere to learn it. That elsewhere is 09.06, which is the whole craft of pulling a handle, borrowed from mugs and exactly right for a spoon that wants to be fat at the shoulder and thin at the tail.
Read the free lesson -
Guide 09.08 · free lessonHow to Properly Dry Your PotteryThe second most common way a spoon is lost is drying, and this guide can only give it a checklist. 09.08 covers what water is actually doing on its way out, why a thin part and a thick part fight each other, and how to slow the surface down so the shoulder can keep up.
Read the free lesson
Good to know
How is this different from the free lesson?
Do I need a wheel?
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Can I share it or use it with a class?
Fillet the corner, and make five
One curve at the shoulder, a handle with some depth to it, and a week of drying lying supported. Download it, print the cheat sheet and the quick reference, and keep them beside you from the first blank to the kiln shelf.
Get the guide · $5.00


